March 13, 2019 at 01:30Choosing a car for an IT specialist, or tips for teapots from a teapot
Hello, Habr! I will make a reservation right away - this post is rather slightly overlapping with the Habrir theme, but a little further I will explain why I decided to publish it. I hope the hubs are selected correctly. So, the whole point is that a modest sample based on my personal observations prompted me to the following thought: a lot (if not most) IT people are pretty poorly versed in cars, their device, and that's all about it. This is not bad, but rather a feature of the thinking of such people. A keen IT person often spends his free time at the computer, has the corresponding hobbies and interests, and therefore is very far from the topic of nuts and wheels. Of course, there are many exceptions, but this post is not about them and not for them. What is the problem, you ask? The problem occurs at the moment when the IT specialist decides to buy a car. Before him opens a whole world with which he has never encountered, a world with a bunch of pitfalls and rakes. How do I know that? I myself am like that. A year ago, I bought my first car in my life, and such a post would help me a lot in due time. In other words, the post is not about IT, but for people related to IT. Who cares - I ask for a cat.
To begin with, I want to immediately put all the points over ё: I perfectly understand that my experience in owning a car is scanty, and I don’t know many things. But, believe me, even such an experience is very different from the one I had a year ago. And this experience would greatly help me a year ago. Therefore - do not kick much, but corrections and criticism in the comments are only welcome.
Everything is simple enough if you have enough finance (and desire) to buy a car from the passenger compartment - in this case, in fact, I will not tell you anything useful. I read reviews / reviews, I chose it to my liking, I bought it in the cabin, you serve at the officials. Beauty. But in the case of a used car, just the same, the story arises much more interesting.
So, the first selection criterion is the year of manufacture . In my humble opinion, this is the most important criterion. While the future is slowly coming with electric cars, 99% of the cars around us are cars with internal combustion engines. And this means that you have to choose a complex mechanism with a huge bunch of details and relationships. This leads to several problems.
Firstly, unlike the usual programs for IT specialists, real mechanisms have wear and tear. Even if you do not take into account the banal wear of the metal (and its fatigue) - the machine contains hundreds of rubber bands, gaskets, tubes, springs, and so on. And over time, all this happiness tends to degrade. Even if the car did not go!
For example, in any engine there are oil seals. An oil seal is a rubber seal (simplified - a rubber ring) that is used in moving mechanisms. Its task is to prevent oil, or other technical fluids from leaking. But over time, the rubber in these seals gets tired, dubbed, begins to collapse. As a result, we have a problem. And the greater the age of the car, the more likely it is to see a puddle in the parking lot the next morning. Moreover, these same seals can stand in such places that to replace them you will need to disassemble half the engine. Obviously, this is not amenable to diagnosis when choosing a car. In addition to the seals, there are bearings, bushings (simplified - this is a piece of rubber through which this or that part is screwed to reduce vibrations), belts, pipes (simplified - large rubber hoses). Thus, the great insidiousness of old cars lies in the lack of guarantees of tomorrow. You can choose and buy a completely lively car that does not leak anywhere, does not knock, does not smoke. And the next day, another gum finally degrades - and hello repair.
This is an oil seal. He has nothing to do with fat. It turned out that he had
a silent block. Why know this? For general development.
Secondly, the older the car, the more difficult it will be to find spare parts for it (VAZ - not counting). If for the conditional 2010th year of release, you can easily google the necessary spare part, and they will be sent to you tomorrow, then with the conditional 1990th year of release, it may well turn out that the part is only on order, after a week, and in general it is already gone.
Conclusion - look for a car fresher. Better car a little lower class, but 10 years younger. It would seem - an obvious fact, but at one time I almost bought a car in 1983 ... I was fascinated by the "blind" headlights.
The second criterion is prevalence. On the sites for the sale of used cars sometimes pop up very "tasty" options. You look - and there is a good condition, both beautiful and inexpensive. “We must take it!” The brain screams. But first you need to understand - why is it so good, and inexpensive? In addition to the obvious reasons, there is one not entirely obvious - the rarity of the car. The owner can sell his car for inexpensive because he took a long time to ring up the disassembly for weeks after each breakdown, and select the right spare part from the seventh time. Hammer this model in the search, see how many more such machines are on sale. Remember - have you seen such cars on the road? If this is the only offer within a radius of 300 kilometers - we admire, smile, and scroll further. This is a good option for connoisseurs and amateurs, but for a beginner it will be just a car on which he at first will not be able to drive, and then will not be able to sell.
Conclusion - do not take exotic cars with the first car. All sorts of Alfaromeo, Lancia, Daihatsu, cars in rare bodies (like honda accord aerodeck). The joy of a beautiful car quickly fades.
Honda Accord Aerodeck. Sweetheart? Undoubtedly. Is it worth taking? Not. Not only exotic, but also the 1983th year of release. Body parts, for example, are not from the word at all.
The third criterion is the prevalence within the trim levels.. The bottom line is this - the same car is often produced in different trim levels. For example, you have chosen for yourself the legendary golf from Volkswagen. For models with the release from 1992 to 1997, there were 12 (!) Different engines. In other words, you can find 12 cars that will look identical, but have different engines. And usually in each line there is a rare or problem configuration. It may be that for all engines of a certain model there are spare parts and a bunch of forums, and that’s all, but for some specific “1.4 diesel” there is no nifig. Example: I was looking for a pipe on my car. I could buy this pipe for any engine without straining at all. For almost anyone - it was on my engine that I eventually made an order from Germany. Nowhere in the country was there such a pipe. Because the liter engine is not the most popular.
Conclusion - after choosing a make and model, google the forums on these cars, thematic groups, and social networks. I am sure that the IT specialist can google well. Ideally, find the owner of such a model, and ask if he knows the problem configurations. With high probability - he knows.
So you have chosen your option - and not older than you, and not a rare exhibit, and even the red one, my wife likes. It's time to buy. You read the forums, watched YouTube, and you know exactly what to watch! So - you do not know. Seriously, you don’t know. You can watch dozens of videos, and then walk in circles around the car, look at it like a ram at a new gate, and say something like, “Well, there is a motor, that's good. The steering wheel is round. Yeah, four wheels. Everything is fine, I’m taking it! ” For example, you read the forums, and everyone writes they say they need to listen to the engine, if it’s knocking. Do you know how a sound engine should sound specifically in this model? Do not know. Do you know how to distinguish the sound of a wheel bearing (simplified - this is the most important bearing in the wheel) from the hum of rubber on asphalt? Unlikely.
Conclusion - try to find a person who will help with the inspection. No friends - find a specialist, pay. Drive to the service station, in the end (if you offer the seller an inspection at his own expense - most likely he will not refuse. If you do not even buy, he will receive a free diagnosis). On your own, you can only see the condition of the paint and interior. Seriously. On this advice, I want to direct focus. When money is burning in your pocket, and in front of you is a car that, like, starts up, drives, and looks good - even a specialist can miss something, not to mention you.
This is a thickness gauge. A good thing, but you should not go with it if you are looking at a 2005 car. Practice shows that for 15 years almost any car was beaten, tinted, trimmed. Searching for “unbroken unpainted” makes sense up to 10 years. Better yet, up to 5.
I will not talk about problems like “gray” documents, sawing machines (these are cars welded in two parts), scammers on a prepaid basis, etc. This information can just be easily google.
Before you buy, think about where you will park for the night. Ideally, rent a garage. You will not like to store winter tires in the apartment, believe me.
There are two types of rubber - winter and summer. Simplified - summer tires are harder so that when heated from summer asphalt they soften a little and keep the road well. Winter is milder so that when cooled from winter frosts it hardens, and it is good to keep the road. Riding summer tires in winter - it is likely that in certain cases you can’t even start moving. Not to mention braking. Riding in the winter summer - you can ride, of course, only it will be erased much faster than the summer, and with a high probability it will turn into the summer closer to winter. There is also “all-weather rubber”, but figure it out for yourself - how can you make rubber that does not melt in the summer and does not harden in the winter? No way. This is an economical option, which I highly recommend. By the way, for checking wear on winter tires, there are usually indicators. Extruded snowflake, for example. If it is erased, then the rubber has ceased to be winter. Why should a novice know this? For example, I got winter tires complete with a car. I was happy. Closer to winter, a knowledgeable person looked at my winter tires, and said that it was no longer winter nichrome. I became not happy. By the way, after re-shoeing the rubber, it is necessary to balance the disc. What is it - you can google. Usually this is done where they change their shoes.
Wear Indicator Example
For the layman - they differ only in size. In fact, there are a lot of nuances like bolt pattern (the number of mounting bolts and the distance between them), departure, the type of edge of the disk. Just be aware that drives are different. Forewarned is forearmed.
Options ABS - anti-lock braking system. Simplified - if you hit the brake "on the floor", then without this system - the wheels will lock and the machine will become uncontrollable. ABS controls the wheels and catches the brake on the verge of blocking. Useful stuff.
Power Steering (power steering) or Power steering(electric power steering). A system that helps to turn the steering wheel. A set of sensors that control the position and speed of the steering wheel, in order to help later with an electric motor or hydraulics. Allows you to rotate the steering wheel with one finger while standing still. My personal opinion is a definite must have. In addition to the comfort of control, it helps to keep the car level and does not allow the steering wheel to get out of the pit.
Mechanics or automatic - I will not start holivar, to each his own. I can only say that you should not be afraid of mechanics, the devil is not so terrible as he is painted.
Xenon(simplified - this is this kind of light in the headlights) - if xenon is indicated in the ad, take an interest in its origin. If it is installed independently, it is very likely that this is a artificially installed China that will blind the oncoming, attract bad words and the attention of traffic police to you.
Heated seats - the same nonsense, ask your native is an option, or a rug with aliexpress. In the second case - buy yourself a good fire extinguisher. And I'm not joking right now.
The option is useful, but dumb. Cases are full.
Injector or carburetor. The carburetor is an extremely outdated engine power system (simplified - a system for supplying gasoline to the engine), which was replaced by electronics (injector). In addition to better performance, the injector gives the machine “brains” to which you can connect. If your machine has an injector, it has a diagnostic connector. Sometimes you can even buy a device for ~ 10 dollars that will allow you to diagnose a car using a smartphone, via bluetooth. Sometimes not. But it’s worth knowing about such a connector.
This is a “check”. It should light when you turned on the ignition, and go out when you started the engine. If it does not go out, or caught fire when driving, the car feels something is amiss. We must go to the service and "read errors."
Wheel alignment. A thing that not all beginners know about. The wheels in the car are not parallel, but at a certain angle. This angle must be adjusted. It is inexpensive, done once every six months - a year. Google “3D camber” in your city, record, do. Symptoms of bad collapse - the car is “pulled” to the left or right, it is thrown slightly along the road, the tires wear out unevenly (in the case of a badly bad collapse, this is noticeable to the eye - on the one hand, the tires are new and very worn out). After buying a car, you should go and check out this same wheel alignment.
Sensitive subject. Ideally, you have a friend who will advise you on a proven service station. If there is no such acquaintance, you will have a quest to find a normal service station. What is the danger of running into:
Unfortunately, there is no simple solution. The choice of SRT is a trial and error method. The only thing I can advise is do not choose a service station somewhere in the yards, without a lift, with employees who start their conversation exclusively with a mat, and all the details are referred to as "this x ... I, well, you understand." If your car is relatively fresh (up to 10 years) - perhaps in your city there is an official service station of your brand. Prices there, of course, will be unpleasant, but at least they will work adequately. Probably. By the way, personal, subjective advice - if there is a choice between repair without warranty, but cheaper, and replacing a part, but more expensive - choose a replacement. Most often, repairs do not take long, and in the end you still have to change. Why spend money twice?
If you do not have a WHA or a Daewoo Lanos - with a high probability most of the spare parts you will have is on order, without availability in the city's stores. So, EVERY detail has its own code. You can find it somewhere in the spare parts catalogs for your car, or on the forums. By the original code, you can find analogues of native parts. Sometimes the price difference between the “original” and the “analog” can be tenfold. At the same time, you should not be afraid of analogues (this is my personal opinion). Knowing the exact number is important, because even on the same model of car, in the same configuration, but released a year earlier or later, they could put another part. Thus, a search query such as "Opel Corsa Ball Joint" would be much less useful than a query like "buy GM 90542574."
For the winter, it is necessary to fill in a special glass washer with a low freezing temperature. Make sure you didn’t leave the car for the night with the headlights turned on (you may miss it, believe me). Keep an eye on engine temperature. An empty car, and a car in which there are five passengers, travels differently (you can laugh, but for me it was unexpected). The recommended tire pressure is usually indicated on the gas tank flap. In cold weather, do not put the car on the handbrake. Down the steep hill, on the contrary, do not put the car in gear. Antifreeze (coolant in the radiator) is different, topping up anything that is horrible is not worth it.
If you need spare parts such as a seat, trunk shelf, steering wheel, doorknob, headlights, etc., then you should not look for them with new ones, most likely they will cost a lot of money. Googled "disassembling% mark_your_machine%". There are a bunch of guys who are disassembling cars, and selling them for parts. Sometimes it happens that a spare part can be found ONLY in disassembly. In general, the existence of such a phenomenon must be known.
Well, that’s kind of like that. I hope this knowledge will be useful to someone, and save a little (or a lot) of time, nerves and money.
To begin with, I want to immediately put all the points over ё: I perfectly understand that my experience in owning a car is scanty, and I don’t know many things. But, believe me, even such an experience is very different from the one I had a year ago. And this experience would greatly help me a year ago. Therefore - do not kick much, but corrections and criticism in the comments are only welcome.
Talk about choosing a car
Everything is simple enough if you have enough finance (and desire) to buy a car from the passenger compartment - in this case, in fact, I will not tell you anything useful. I read reviews / reviews, I chose it to my liking, I bought it in the cabin, you serve at the officials. Beauty. But in the case of a used car, just the same, the story arises much more interesting.
So, the first selection criterion is the year of manufacture . In my humble opinion, this is the most important criterion. While the future is slowly coming with electric cars, 99% of the cars around us are cars with internal combustion engines. And this means that you have to choose a complex mechanism with a huge bunch of details and relationships. This leads to several problems.
Firstly, unlike the usual programs for IT specialists, real mechanisms have wear and tear. Even if you do not take into account the banal wear of the metal (and its fatigue) - the machine contains hundreds of rubber bands, gaskets, tubes, springs, and so on. And over time, all this happiness tends to degrade. Even if the car did not go!
For example, in any engine there are oil seals. An oil seal is a rubber seal (simplified - a rubber ring) that is used in moving mechanisms. Its task is to prevent oil, or other technical fluids from leaking. But over time, the rubber in these seals gets tired, dubbed, begins to collapse. As a result, we have a problem. And the greater the age of the car, the more likely it is to see a puddle in the parking lot the next morning. Moreover, these same seals can stand in such places that to replace them you will need to disassemble half the engine. Obviously, this is not amenable to diagnosis when choosing a car. In addition to the seals, there are bearings, bushings (simplified - this is a piece of rubber through which this or that part is screwed to reduce vibrations), belts, pipes (simplified - large rubber hoses). Thus, the great insidiousness of old cars lies in the lack of guarantees of tomorrow. You can choose and buy a completely lively car that does not leak anywhere, does not knock, does not smoke. And the next day, another gum finally degrades - and hello repair.
This is an oil seal. a silent block. Why know this? For general development. Secondly, the older the car, the more difficult it will be to find spare parts for it (VAZ - not counting). If for the conditional 2010th year of release, you can easily google the necessary spare part, and they will be sent to you tomorrow, then with the conditional 1990th year of release, it may well turn out that the part is only on order, after a week, and in general it is already gone.
Conclusion - look for a car fresher. Better car a little lower class, but 10 years younger. It would seem - an obvious fact, but at one time I almost bought a car in 1983 ... I was fascinated by the "blind" headlights.
The second criterion is prevalence. On the sites for the sale of used cars sometimes pop up very "tasty" options. You look - and there is a good condition, both beautiful and inexpensive. “We must take it!” The brain screams. But first you need to understand - why is it so good, and inexpensive? In addition to the obvious reasons, there is one not entirely obvious - the rarity of the car. The owner can sell his car for inexpensive because he took a long time to ring up the disassembly for weeks after each breakdown, and select the right spare part from the seventh time. Hammer this model in the search, see how many more such machines are on sale. Remember - have you seen such cars on the road? If this is the only offer within a radius of 300 kilometers - we admire, smile, and scroll further. This is a good option for connoisseurs and amateurs, but for a beginner it will be just a car on which he at first will not be able to drive, and then will not be able to sell.
Conclusion - do not take exotic cars with the first car. All sorts of Alfaromeo, Lancia, Daihatsu, cars in rare bodies (like honda accord aerodeck). The joy of a beautiful car quickly fades.
Honda Accord Aerodeck. Sweetheart? Undoubtedly. Is it worth taking? Not. Not only exotic, but also the 1983th year of release. Body parts, for example, are not from the word at all.
The third criterion is the prevalence within the trim levels.. The bottom line is this - the same car is often produced in different trim levels. For example, you have chosen for yourself the legendary golf from Volkswagen. For models with the release from 1992 to 1997, there were 12 (!) Different engines. In other words, you can find 12 cars that will look identical, but have different engines. And usually in each line there is a rare or problem configuration. It may be that for all engines of a certain model there are spare parts and a bunch of forums, and that’s all, but for some specific “1.4 diesel” there is no nifig. Example: I was looking for a pipe on my car. I could buy this pipe for any engine without straining at all. For almost anyone - it was on my engine that I eventually made an order from Germany. Nowhere in the country was there such a pipe. Because the liter engine is not the most popular.
Conclusion - after choosing a make and model, google the forums on these cars, thematic groups, and social networks. I am sure that the IT specialist can google well. Ideally, find the owner of such a model, and ask if he knows the problem configurations. With high probability - he knows.
Car inspection
So you have chosen your option - and not older than you, and not a rare exhibit, and even the red one, my wife likes. It's time to buy. You read the forums, watched YouTube, and you know exactly what to watch! So - you do not know. Seriously, you don’t know. You can watch dozens of videos, and then walk in circles around the car, look at it like a ram at a new gate, and say something like, “Well, there is a motor, that's good. The steering wheel is round. Yeah, four wheels. Everything is fine, I’m taking it! ” For example, you read the forums, and everyone writes they say they need to listen to the engine, if it’s knocking. Do you know how a sound engine should sound specifically in this model? Do not know. Do you know how to distinguish the sound of a wheel bearing (simplified - this is the most important bearing in the wheel) from the hum of rubber on asphalt? Unlikely.
Conclusion - try to find a person who will help with the inspection. No friends - find a specialist, pay. Drive to the service station, in the end (if you offer the seller an inspection at his own expense - most likely he will not refuse. If you do not even buy, he will receive a free diagnosis). On your own, you can only see the condition of the paint and interior. Seriously. On this advice, I want to direct focus. When money is burning in your pocket, and in front of you is a car that, like, starts up, drives, and looks good - even a specialist can miss something, not to mention you.
This is a thickness gauge. A good thing, but you should not go with it if you are looking at a 2005 car. Practice shows that for 15 years almost any car was beaten, tinted, trimmed. Searching for “unbroken unpainted” makes sense up to 10 years. Better yet, up to 5.
Purchase
I will not talk about problems like “gray” documents, sawing machines (these are cars welded in two parts), scammers on a prepaid basis, etc. This information can just be easily google.
Now let's talk about ownership
Parking
Before you buy, think about where you will park for the night. Ideally, rent a garage. You will not like to store winter tires in the apartment, believe me.
Rubber
There are two types of rubber - winter and summer. Simplified - summer tires are harder so that when heated from summer asphalt they soften a little and keep the road well. Winter is milder so that when cooled from winter frosts it hardens, and it is good to keep the road. Riding summer tires in winter - it is likely that in certain cases you can’t even start moving. Not to mention braking. Riding in the winter summer - you can ride, of course, only it will be erased much faster than the summer, and with a high probability it will turn into the summer closer to winter. There is also “all-weather rubber”, but figure it out for yourself - how can you make rubber that does not melt in the summer and does not harden in the winter? No way. This is an economical option, which I highly recommend. By the way, for checking wear on winter tires, there are usually indicators. Extruded snowflake, for example. If it is erased, then the rubber has ceased to be winter. Why should a novice know this? For example, I got winter tires complete with a car. I was happy. Closer to winter, a knowledgeable person looked at my winter tires, and said that it was no longer winter nichrome. I became not happy. By the way, after re-shoeing the rubber, it is necessary to balance the disc. What is it - you can google. Usually this is done where they change their shoes.
Wear Indicator Example
Disks
For the layman - they differ only in size. In fact, there are a lot of nuances like bolt pattern (the number of mounting bolts and the distance between them), departure, the type of edge of the disk. Just be aware that drives are different. Forewarned is forearmed.
Options ABS - anti-lock braking system. Simplified - if you hit the brake "on the floor", then without this system - the wheels will lock and the machine will become uncontrollable. ABS controls the wheels and catches the brake on the verge of blocking. Useful stuff.
Power Steering (power steering) or Power steering(electric power steering). A system that helps to turn the steering wheel. A set of sensors that control the position and speed of the steering wheel, in order to help later with an electric motor or hydraulics. Allows you to rotate the steering wheel with one finger while standing still. My personal opinion is a definite must have. In addition to the comfort of control, it helps to keep the car level and does not allow the steering wheel to get out of the pit.
Mechanics or automatic - I will not start holivar, to each his own. I can only say that you should not be afraid of mechanics, the devil is not so terrible as he is painted.
Xenon(simplified - this is this kind of light in the headlights) - if xenon is indicated in the ad, take an interest in its origin. If it is installed independently, it is very likely that this is a artificially installed China that will blind the oncoming, attract bad words and the attention of traffic police to you.
Heated seats - the same nonsense, ask your native is an option, or a rug with aliexpress. In the second case - buy yourself a good fire extinguisher. And I'm not joking right now.
The option is useful, but dumb. Cases are full.
Injector or carburetor. The carburetor is an extremely outdated engine power system (simplified - a system for supplying gasoline to the engine), which was replaced by electronics (injector). In addition to better performance, the injector gives the machine “brains” to which you can connect. If your machine has an injector, it has a diagnostic connector. Sometimes you can even buy a device for ~ 10 dollars that will allow you to diagnose a car using a smartphone, via bluetooth. Sometimes not. But it’s worth knowing about such a connector.
This is a “check”. It should light when you turned on the ignition, and go out when you started the engine. If it does not go out, or caught fire when driving, the car feels something is amiss. We must go to the service and "read errors."
Wheel alignment. A thing that not all beginners know about. The wheels in the car are not parallel, but at a certain angle. This angle must be adjusted. It is inexpensive, done once every six months - a year. Google “3D camber” in your city, record, do. Symptoms of bad collapse - the car is “pulled” to the left or right, it is thrown slightly along the road, the tires wear out unevenly (in the case of a badly bad collapse, this is noticeable to the eye - on the one hand, the tires are new and very worn out). After buying a car, you should go and check out this same wheel alignment.
Choosing a Service Station
Sensitive subject. Ideally, you have a friend who will advise you on a proven service station. If there is no such acquaintance, you will have a quest to find a normal service station. What is the danger of running into:
- A muddy garage in a cooperative, where the craftsman "Uncle Valera" will do everything "by eye", using a bad tool, not the best technical solutions, and some kind of mother
- Service, where you will come to change the oil, and they will tell you that it’s time to capitalize the engine, and the suspension knocks, and in general it’s dangerous to drive, you give us 100 500 thousand money, and we will fix
- The service, where it seems like they are doing everything normally, does not impose anything superfluous, but recording them a month in advance. Not the worst option, but in case of breakdown the car will stand like a monument for weeks, until there is a “window” for you
Unfortunately, there is no simple solution. The choice of SRT is a trial and error method. The only thing I can advise is do not choose a service station somewhere in the yards, without a lift, with employees who start their conversation exclusively with a mat, and all the details are referred to as "this x ... I, well, you understand." If your car is relatively fresh (up to 10 years) - perhaps in your city there is an official service station of your brand. Prices there, of course, will be unpleasant, but at least they will work adequately. Probably. By the way, personal, subjective advice - if there is a choice between repair without warranty, but cheaper, and replacing a part, but more expensive - choose a replacement. Most often, repairs do not take long, and in the end you still have to change. Why spend money twice?
Parts Search
If you do not have a WHA or a Daewoo Lanos - with a high probability most of the spare parts you will have is on order, without availability in the city's stores. So, EVERY detail has its own code. You can find it somewhere in the spare parts catalogs for your car, or on the forums. By the original code, you can find analogues of native parts. Sometimes the price difference between the “original” and the “analog” can be tenfold. At the same time, you should not be afraid of analogues (this is my personal opinion). Knowing the exact number is important, because even on the same model of car, in the same configuration, but released a year earlier or later, they could put another part. Thus, a search query such as "Opel Corsa Ball Joint" would be much less useful than a query like "buy GM 90542574."
Trivia
For the winter, it is necessary to fill in a special glass washer with a low freezing temperature. Make sure you didn’t leave the car for the night with the headlights turned on (you may miss it, believe me). Keep an eye on engine temperature. An empty car, and a car in which there are five passengers, travels differently (you can laugh, but for me it was unexpected). The recommended tire pressure is usually indicated on the gas tank flap. In cold weather, do not put the car on the handbrake. Down the steep hill, on the contrary, do not put the car in gear. Antifreeze (coolant in the radiator) is different, topping up anything that is horrible is not worth it.
Showdown
If you need spare parts such as a seat, trunk shelf, steering wheel, doorknob, headlights, etc., then you should not look for them with new ones, most likely they will cost a lot of money. Googled "disassembling% mark_your_machine%". There are a bunch of guys who are disassembling cars, and selling them for parts. Sometimes it happens that a spare part can be found ONLY in disassembly. In general, the existence of such a phenomenon must be known.
Well, that’s kind of like that. I hope this knowledge will be useful to someone, and save a little (or a lot) of time, nerves and money.