Contrast and durable marker board

As part of the gradual transition of the development process from spontaneous to sane, i.e. to Agile, I began to more and more sharply get up the issue of drawing / changing charts, charts, tasks and other things. Initially, we thought to buy a marker or chalk board in the nearest office store and use it, but then the idea to make it with our own hands appeared, grew and seized power over us, which this article discusses.

On the habr more than once or more than two articles were published on how to make your ideal writing board. We have also tried more than once or twice to recreate these boards. At first, a vinyl film board was chosen as the simplest, cheapest, and most logical solution. The results were good, but not enough, because the board is terribly erased (only alcohol, water has practically no effect) and does not look very neat. Although, perhaps, we poorly selected the film. After the film, we decided to build a glass board with the opposite contrast. The background color is blue. The main implementation methods are either painting or a color substrate. For verification purposes and, in general, even the creation, we purchased glasses: three small squares 200 * 200 * 4, two huge and heavy sheets 2000 * 1500 * 4 and medium sizes 1000 * 1000 * 4. All glass was ordered with edge polishing,

The cardboard was good, but the difficulty of gluing and weak, but still noticeable lines of junction still forced to try painting. For painting, 2 cans of acrylic paint were bought in black and blue. Painting was completed quickly and cheerfully, although there were many screams about the smell of paint. After that, they decided to make the smallest board to use (meter per meter) and after degreasing and laying out the walls with a newspaper, it was solemnly covered with five layers of paint.

It was found that spray paint, in addition to the terrible stench, also scatters throughout the cabinet in the form of the finest dust that settles on everything that can be settled. After painting, a blue streak formed under the door, which, fortunately, was timely noticed and eliminated.

All programmers and designers liked the color and quality of painting, but a new project fell in and the board was put aside for about a month. When, after a month, we decided to continue, we found that acrylic spray paint had a fairly low adhesion to the glass and, despite degreasing the surface in some places, began to move away from it. Moreover, the already not very large board (meter per meter) was very noticeable uneven painting and this despite the fact that the paint was applied in 3 layers. I also had to refuse the option of painting from a spray can.

After a short walk through the construction forums, it turned out that some primers have good adhesion to glass. In a nearby building, they advised Tikkurila Otex, which was successfully purchased and tinted in the color M358.

Further, everything went quickly enough. Using acetone, acrylic paint flew off. Even a drop of acetone was enough to start swimming. After that, the surface was degreased and the painting process itself began. Paint was gradually poured into the bath and carefully applied to glass, which was leaned against the wall. The primer turned out to be so thick that, when applied accurately, it did not drip off completely and dried, which is nice, fast enough. In about 2.5 hours, we applied 3 layers and this was limited. After that, the board was left to dry for 2 days.

After, but rather already during drying, questions began to appear about how we would fasten the board to the wall. I wanted to do it simply, quickly and relatively neatly and at the same time so that the wall does not fall apart, because a gyro is a gyro. As a result of our research in the same building, nylon dowels were found for gypsum plaster, which, which is especially pleasant, did not require preliminary drilling of the wall.

Also there were found quite neat looking wooden blocks measuring 20 * 20 * 2200 with rounded edges and well polished. As a result, these bars were decided to be used as a frame.

The mass of glass 2000 * 1500 * 4, based on the specific gravity of glass 2700 kg / m3, it turned out about 30 kg, which is quite a lot. The load on the dowels is 10 kg for tearing, 25 per shear, and given that the load will not be distributed perfectly, or maybe someone accidentally leans on and we plan to attach small shelves, it was decided to consider the nominal load 1/3 and provide for its triple excess , which gave us 11 dowels, which we successfully rounded to 12. The bars were marked, drilled and finally screwed to the wall screws.

The next task was to prevent the glass from snugly against the wall, as in this case, the glass can work like a wedge and, in some perspective, pull the bars out of the wall.
After searching, a small sheet of plywood was discovered, which became the one that pushed the glass from the wall. He was quickly sawn into a large number of uneven pieces, which were attached to the wall on double-sided tape.

Further, the glass was hoisted into place and fixed on top and bottom with a glazing bead and small screws.

After that, in order to eliminate the horizontal course of the glass (it curved slightly under its weight and bent when pressed), vertical bars were made.
As a result of all these actions, we believe that our board is ready for use.


According to the results of weekly use, I want to say that the board looks very good, reads, it’s fine to write on it with a chalk marker, and it is erased simply with a hand or a rag.
Speaking of markers, even at the stage of choosing the material of the board, the question arose of what to write. After a short march around the Internet and hundreds of found permanent markers for sale, which, if they are erased, the smell of acetone / solvent will stand on the whole office, we found chalk markers, which are most often used for writing on LED-boards. A copy of such a marker was found in a nearby office supply store and admitted to “production testing”. Its white lines are visible in photographs. However, as it turned out, in our city it is very, very difficult to find at least some choice of these markers on sale. Therefore, a quite good seller was found on ibei , which delivers fairly inexpensive markers from China for free. We are waiting for them and hope that we will have them soon.
Summing up, I would also like to touch on the price of one board.
  • Primer Otex + tinting - 1000 rub.
  • Degreasing - 100 rub.
  • Dowels are gyro 50pcs. - 150 rub.
  • Universal screws 50 * 4.5 50pcs. - 50r.
  • Roller, bath - 700 rub.
  • 4 rolls of toilet paper - 100 rub.
  • Glass 4 * 2000 * 1500 with polished edge - 4000 rub.
  • Wooden block 20x20x2200 4pcs - 150 rub.

Total: 6250 p.

Work about 6 hours in total.
As a result, we have: the cost at the level of a cheap marker board is 100 * 150, but at the same time a significantly larger surface, contrast, durability and, of course, the joy that the board was made by hand.

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