Replacing the dead middle mouse button Logitech G602
Good day, residents of the Giktayms! The guide you are looking at now is nothing more than a small set of photos with comments on the relatively simple operation of replacing the middle mouse button of the Logitech Wireless Gaming G602 . It was the frequency of angry references to its breakdown that prompted me, deciding on an independent repair, to take some photos in the hope of giving a hint to indecisive users with the same problem as inside and how.
For a start retreat. When choosing a mouse, I started from just a few criteria. Firstly, it should be wireless, but with a huge battery life. Secondly, additional customizable buttons for music control. And thirdly, ergonomics and sensitivity in case of a sudden desire to play shooters. But basically the purpose of the mouse is to creep languidly on the pages of the World Wide Web. And such a mouse was found - Logitech Wireless Gaming Mouse G602 . Studying the reviews, before the purchase I read in several places that the middle mouse button lives exactly six months, but the thought that the mouse will be used non-intensively and the price (at a discount) of 2600 rubles prompted me to take a chance.
Here she is, beauty
Of course, it was unpleasant after exactly six months to find out, up to a week, the suddenly dead middle button. And if in the browser you can still get used to closing the tabs with a cross and opening it by holding Ctrl or dragging links, then in the game you can sometimes suddenly find yourself with a sniper rifle without zoom or lose your melee strike, which is unpleasant.
The attempt to communicate with the vaunted Logitech technical support failed - they didn’t care and besides the “turn-on-turn” and “contact where you bought” lists I received nothing (of course, you can understand them, but the myth of their loyalty is locally dispelled for me), and the mouse was bought in a non-resident online store with delivery, so that repair through them, too, somehow did not grow together. So I climbed to study the mouse, and remembering that I was not alone, I took a series of photos of the insides for possible followers.
Of course, getting into an electronic device is only at your own peril and risk , not to mention the loss of warranty. This, in part, I understood from my own experience. But first things first.
For starters, no matter how regrettable it is, all the “legs” must be torn apart, except for two thin ones in the center, which can lead to their rupture, deformation and poor gluing back. Under the four extreme legs are 6 screws. There are no latches between the two halves, and after unscrewing the last screw, the mouse simply falls apart into halves connected by a loop.
The location of the screws. All screws that will need to be loosened to replace the buttons are identical to the
ribbon cable and the insides. The battery block is held by 3 screws, the main board by two (this is a photo from the assembly process - the batteries are inserted for verification)
And at once it becomes clear why, in a vaunted mouse with repeatedly tested buttons with a huge resource, the middle button suddenly breaks - it, unlike the others, is the simplest and cheapest, which are sold almost on the radio market. I don’t know that this is a planned obsolescence or just a calculation that this button is the most unused, but the fact remains - the one-time button.
Here are the buttons I had compared to what I needed (white on the left)
In general, in a good way, changing the button, it would be worth confusing replacing it with a more advanced one, but to my surprise there were no options that fit in size. And even more, the button turned out to have a flatter work surface than its common relatives. But here I was lucky - in the zahashniks there was one single similar one, soldered either from the printer or from the radio, and which had to bite off the ground leg. Any other standard one would only have to be filed with a file - and it would also fit.
A new button was found. Dirty and grounded, but works well. In the background you can see the buttons G10 and G11, the design and softness differ markedly
Unfortunately, the native button died completely, so I could not do without a replacement (for example, by attaching a thin pad). So I took the soldering iron and go. Here, with my 40W soldering iron, I ran into another problem inherent in many devices manufactured by China, solder with a high melting point. I didn’t burn the board - I bit the button with wire cutters, and the legs had already been individually removed. There was no such problem with soldering a new button - I used domestic solder.
Soldered. Due to the improvisational nature of the work, it didn’t work out neatly. The
new button fell into place - the main thing is to press it to the board so as not to reduce the gap between the button and the protrusion of the wheel block
The first assembly turned out to be successful at first glance, and I was very happy with the clear and error-free middle button. However, I noticed one nuisance - one of the side LEDs did not light. Not that I really needed them (I don’t switch dpi), but they look stylish.
Having disassembled and checked the diode (it works great), I concluded that something was short-circuited - but I did not find any traces of solder or damage. And accidentally touching the board with my hand when the power is on, I realized what most likely happened. When touched, the blue and green LEDs light up, which means they are most likely controlled by a low-power controller through field-effect transistors, one of which I could simply burn with static or touch with a soldering iron.
Resigned, gathered. It turned out that the mouse stopped responding to the table and moved only on perfectly smooth surfaces - I had to sort it out and clean it again, also make sure there were no gaps and distortions, and after the third assembly the mouse started working again. Only the LED did not work, but he fell a victim in the name of a good goal - the ability to open tabs in a new window and beat opponents with a butt in games. Perhaps my repair will live exactly six months, but I still have to live up to this time ...
In conclusion, I’ll say that if something is broken and there is no one to fix it, sometimes it’s interesting and useful to do it yourself if you don’t be afraid and be sure of success. Without a ready-made guide (maybe I’ve looked badly ...) and advice, you can step on the rake, but if you are prudent and careful, everything will work out.
I don’t know if my mini-article will find its reader, but I sincerely hope that my little experiment will benefit someone and I have not in vain kept the camera at hand.
For a start retreat. When choosing a mouse, I started from just a few criteria. Firstly, it should be wireless, but with a huge battery life. Secondly, additional customizable buttons for music control. And thirdly, ergonomics and sensitivity in case of a sudden desire to play shooters. But basically the purpose of the mouse is to creep languidly on the pages of the World Wide Web. And such a mouse was found - Logitech Wireless Gaming Mouse G602 . Studying the reviews, before the purchase I read in several places that the middle mouse button lives exactly six months, but the thought that the mouse will be used non-intensively and the price (at a discount) of 2600 rubles prompted me to take a chance.
Here she is, beauty
Of course, it was unpleasant after exactly six months to find out, up to a week, the suddenly dead middle button. And if in the browser you can still get used to closing the tabs with a cross and opening it by holding Ctrl or dragging links, then in the game you can sometimes suddenly find yourself with a sniper rifle without zoom or lose your melee strike, which is unpleasant.
The attempt to communicate with the vaunted Logitech technical support failed - they didn’t care and besides the “turn-on-turn” and “contact where you bought” lists I received nothing (of course, you can understand them, but the myth of their loyalty is locally dispelled for me), and the mouse was bought in a non-resident online store with delivery, so that repair through them, too, somehow did not grow together. So I climbed to study the mouse, and remembering that I was not alone, I took a series of photos of the insides for possible followers.
Of course, getting into an electronic device is only at your own peril and risk , not to mention the loss of warranty. This, in part, I understood from my own experience. But first things first.
For starters, no matter how regrettable it is, all the “legs” must be torn apart, except for two thin ones in the center, which can lead to their rupture, deformation and poor gluing back. Under the four extreme legs are 6 screws. There are no latches between the two halves, and after unscrewing the last screw, the mouse simply falls apart into halves connected by a loop.
The location of the screws. All screws that will need to be loosened to replace the buttons are identical to the
ribbon cable and the insides. The battery block is held by 3 screws, the main board by two (this is a photo from the assembly process - the batteries are inserted for verification)
And at once it becomes clear why, in a vaunted mouse with repeatedly tested buttons with a huge resource, the middle button suddenly breaks - it, unlike the others, is the simplest and cheapest, which are sold almost on the radio market. I don’t know that this is a planned obsolescence or just a calculation that this button is the most unused, but the fact remains - the one-time button.
Here are the buttons I had compared to what I needed (white on the left)
In general, in a good way, changing the button, it would be worth confusing replacing it with a more advanced one, but to my surprise there were no options that fit in size. And even more, the button turned out to have a flatter work surface than its common relatives. But here I was lucky - in the zahashniks there was one single similar one, soldered either from the printer or from the radio, and which had to bite off the ground leg. Any other standard one would only have to be filed with a file - and it would also fit.
A new button was found. Dirty and grounded, but works well. In the background you can see the buttons G10 and G11, the design and softness differ markedly
Unfortunately, the native button died completely, so I could not do without a replacement (for example, by attaching a thin pad). So I took the soldering iron and go. Here, with my 40W soldering iron, I ran into another problem inherent in many devices manufactured by China, solder with a high melting point. I didn’t burn the board - I bit the button with wire cutters, and the legs had already been individually removed. There was no such problem with soldering a new button - I used domestic solder.
Soldered. Due to the improvisational nature of the work, it didn’t work out neatly. The
new button fell into place - the main thing is to press it to the board so as not to reduce the gap between the button and the protrusion of the wheel block
The first assembly turned out to be successful at first glance, and I was very happy with the clear and error-free middle button. However, I noticed one nuisance - one of the side LEDs did not light. Not that I really needed them (I don’t switch dpi), but they look stylish.
Having disassembled and checked the diode (it works great), I concluded that something was short-circuited - but I did not find any traces of solder or damage. And accidentally touching the board with my hand when the power is on, I realized what most likely happened. When touched, the blue and green LEDs light up, which means they are most likely controlled by a low-power controller through field-effect transistors, one of which I could simply burn with static or touch with a soldering iron.
Resigned, gathered. It turned out that the mouse stopped responding to the table and moved only on perfectly smooth surfaces - I had to sort it out and clean it again, also make sure there were no gaps and distortions, and after the third assembly the mouse started working again. Only the LED did not work, but he fell a victim in the name of a good goal - the ability to open tabs in a new window and beat opponents with a butt in games. Perhaps my repair will live exactly six months, but I still have to live up to this time ...
In conclusion, I’ll say that if something is broken and there is no one to fix it, sometimes it’s interesting and useful to do it yourself if you don’t be afraid and be sure of success. Without a ready-made guide (maybe I’ve looked badly ...) and advice, you can step on the rake, but if you are prudent and careful, everything will work out.
I don’t know if my mini-article will find its reader, but I sincerely hope that my little experiment will benefit someone and I have not in vain kept the camera at hand.