October 23, 2013 at 16:36Samsung NX: turning a system camera into an ecosystem. Part 1
Good afternoon, Habr!
Tell me, do you use a camera? Almost certainly - yes: if not a separate device, then the smartphone’s camera for sure. Today, photography does not require the user to know even basic concepts such as “shutter speed”, “aperture”, “focal length” - the software is more or less successfully solving, and hundreds of millions of people use the services of scientific and technological progress without even thinking about what is hidden under the hood of their devices.
On the one hand, it’s good: you want to live easier and take pictures without thinking about exposure or white balance. The world is living more and more dynamic, and interesting shots can slip away in just a few seconds. On the other hand, the Internet will soon end up with free space due to the variety of terrible photos taken with crooked hands in the absence of any taste and skill of users. :) But the discussion in this post is by no means about them, but about two mirrorless cameras from Samsung - the NX300 and NX2000, as well as the Samsung NX system itself, which includes accessories, lenses, and cameras. Well, from the screw?
Yes, I almost forgot! The post turned out to be so huge that it had to be divided into three parts (maybe there will be a fourth part - the bonus one), so today I’ll talk about the general theory, design features of the cameras, the process of working with the camera, pieces of iron and present a few frames to your judgment . In the following posts I’ll tell you about optics, its features and capabilities, and about SMART functionality for a snack.
During the testing with the weather, of course, I had no luck at all, so that part of the staff I honestly will snitch from similar reviews from other resources, and I will give some explanations if they are needed. Well now ... let's go!
The boom on “mirrorless mirrors” began about five years ago. One of the manufacturers was deeply thoughtful and suggested: “And let's leave the APS-C matrix, throw out the mirror, and let them shoot everything through Live View.” For some reason, a new class of devices appeared - mirrorless digital cameras with interchangeable lenses. On the one hand, there is a processor and a matrix from the DSLR inside, on the other hand, there is no mirror or optical viewfinder, the working length is shorter - in general, a whole set of compromises that posed a very specific range of engineering tasks for developers. What to do with autofocus? What mount to use for lenses? How to modify the software so that it is convenient to use the camera with a reduced number of controls? How and where to place controls?
The second class that I would like to mention before moving on to the direct description of the NX series is, in fact, smart cameras. Cameras capable of not only “creating” content, but also processing it (within certain limits), and immediately sharing it (with other devices via Wi-Fi / Bluetooth, Internet services such as Flickr or YouTube, as well as uploading it to social network). In a way, these are “smartphones” among ordinary cameras. The most-smart ones are Android cameras (about GALAXY NX later there will be separate material), but “less smart” are both some “soap dishes” and mirrorless ones like the NX2000, and even monsters like Canon EOS 6D with its built-in Wi- Fi, GPS and special software for uploading photos directly to a smartphone or tablet). I will talk about SMART functionality later.
Let's start with the younger model: I spent only a couple of days with it, and of course, the “photoflagman” NX300 is of interest, first of all, so let's take a look at the “two thousandth”, its main features, and move on.
The main characteristics of the camera are as follows:
As you can see, everything is at the level of modern DSLRs of about the same segment, but without a mirror, in a compact case and with touch control.
Unfortunately, not everything is so simple and beautiful: autofocus is contrasting, i.e. differs in gradual leisurelyness. By the way, the NEX7 camera from Sony has the same problem. In fact, not everything is so bad, but after hybrid phase-contrast systems in the NX300 and some other models of this form factor, there may be slight irritation due to the thoughtfulness of the camera.
However, if you don’t use two cameras at once, then after a day or two there is practically no sense of “slow drain” - yet modern mobile processors have become much faster, and software developers are not in vain eating their bread: the system focuses, it does it well enough, and reporting Leave the shooting to those who were adapted for it from birth. :) In addition, contrast autofocus does not require costly improvements to the matrix and the installation of phase sensors in it, which significantly affects the price of the final device.
The camera looks very simple in appearance: a few control buttons, a huge touch screen, a bayonet mount - that's all. No tricky switches, no tilt or swivel display: minimalism, accuracy, simplicity.
By the way, there is no built-in flash either, but there is an external flash in the kit. It is mounted via Smart Shoe - an external port for smart accessories. The module itself looks very neat, takes a minimum of space in a “separate” position, and generally shows good results for its modest size.
The controls are represented by the following elements:
Another button is located on the lens itself, called iFN, and its functionality is configured in the menu. All other counter on ly brought to the big, bright touch screen.
Most of all I was embarrassed by this “flu” section. In theory, the thumb should lie here. In practice, I was constantly trying to “press” a nonexistent button, but in place of this “little thing” you could hang a couple of custom buttons that would make it easier to control the camera.
Soft cameras can be roughly divided into three large “sections”. The first is shooting in “general” modes, various program machines and functions when shooting in the style of “let the camera think for me”. The second is shooting in a completely manual mode “like on a DSLR”. That is, you choose the shutter speed and / or aperture yourself, adjust the ISO and generally get full control over the camera. The third is the “post-shooting” section: processing of finished pictures, sharing via wireless connections and other “smart chips”. All three sections are united by a common part, which can be called the camera OS. I have a suspicion that inside is a deeply customized truncated / doped Linux.
The main control element is the “ring” on the top of the camera, which rotates without restriction in any direction and is not marked; when it is rotated, the display shows the current (and, accordingly, the next and previous modes) shooting. In this regard, the camera is completely "casual". Available shooting modes are SmartAuto (the so-called “green mode”, in which the camera selects all parameters as it sees fit), SmartScene (a full-fledged software, in the sub-menu of which you can select a shooting scenario in the touch screen, and the camera will already select the appropriate parameters and displays shooting tips if it considers necessary), Wi-Fi connection mode, video recording mode (which is duplicated separately on the “red button”, and “expert” mode, in which, “priority” is stored excerpts " “Aperture priority” and “fully manual” sub-modes of shooting. We’ll talk about them a little later, since they practically do not differ from the NX300, with which I basically talked all this time.
Firstly, the completely “green” mode gives decent shots in 90% of cases. The automatic white balance, shutter speed and aperture, depending on the scene and focal length (+ distance that the optics focused on), combined with not the fastest but the most accurate contrast autofocus, do their job. In addition, a relatively large matrix (APS-C, crop factor 1.6), and a smart processor that processes the signal from it, even with contrast autofocus, do not feel “disabled” in terms of auto focus. In addition, contrast aperture (as opposed to phase) does not matter aperture and light level? - there would be contrasting elements in the frame, and he could focus. The speed limit mainly rests on the speed of movement of the objective lenses and image analysis.
Secondly, the scene modes (SmartScene) also allow you to get good shots in the remaining 10% of cases: the camera stops playing the “guessing game” and obediently pinches the “hole” for landscape photography, opens it for portraits, successfully selects shutter speed for shooting dynamic objects and generally behaves appropriately and predictably.
It’s quite realistic to give such a camera to parents who aren’t the most technically savvy on vacation, providing them with a brief instruction “where to reap”, and they will bring back successful shots enough to score another album of vivid impressions of Egypt or Turkey, even if they use only the automatic shooting mode .
The post-processing and sharing functions are largely similar to those in the NX300, unless onWith a larger display, the NX2000 is a bit nicer to work with. Firstly, it is worth noting that the term “post-processing” itself is somewhat incorrect: many of the effects, settings and filters can be applied BEFORE shooting, adjusting color reproduction, contrast, brightness, saturation and many other parameters through the menu. Secondly, photo editing options differ for JPEG and RAW files. The second, in addition to filters, color settings and other little things can be fully “dragged” by several parameters, as in Photoshop or lightroom. I would not say that this is essential functionality, but on a trip, without a laptop or tablet, having hooked up to Wi-Fi in a cafe, you can “process” it well and put the photo on the Internet directly from the camera. We'll talk about all this in more detail when we consider the NX300.
Well, what are your impressions? My imho is this: the NX2000 is an extremely simple version of the more “adult” mirrorless NX300: it is as focused on the “plug and play” style of use as possible, and it inherited the expert shooting mode from the older camera, on the principle that “the feature is better than her absence ”, and if there is a camera with similar entrails, why not transfer the functionality, in fact. But, with all this “casualness”, the NX2000 makes exactly the same good and clear shots, surprisingly confidently works in the “green mode” and has in stock SMART-functionality and wireless interfaces.
Yes, the hardware control is maximally simplified to please the large touch screen and automatic shooting mode, but if necessary, the camera can instantly turn into an “adult” by providing the full range of settings available on entry-level and mid-range SLR cameras (for Canon, let this there will be 1000 and 500-600-700 series). In addition, the “two thousandth” uses microSD cards:
Well, we got to the "big brother". I’ve already spoiled some of the differences for you, some haven’t yet, so we'll sort it out in order.
If the NX2000 is a child of plastic and a classic representative of the “middle segment”, then the NX300 shines with noble materials and a retro design: metal, “under the skin” coating, “adult” set of controls, a neat and reliable rotary screen mechanism.
On the top face - as many as five camera controls.
As for the above items, I have no complaints: the first, second and fourth elements are implemented almost perfectly. The adjustment wheel hiding behind the number 3, in my opinion, rotates too easily - it would have a slightly more noticeable / tangible “click” on the division and not such a “deep” fit into the camera body - and it would be simply gorgeous.
But point number 5 is still a misunderstanding, but we will return to it a little later.
On the back panel, in addition to the touchscreen (which can be deviated 90 degrees up and 45 degrees down from its original position), there is a five-position multi-function button that provides navigation through menus and settings, as well as quick access to some functions, buttons for moving to the gallery, the button for deleting the photo, the FN button, the button for switching to the main menu of the camera and the button that selects the mode of operation of the number 3 wheel from the last paragraph - adjusts shutter speed or aperture. You can reassign / reassign other functions to most of the available buttons through the main menu, thus gaining access to almost any function in one click.
In principle, according to the icons / signatures on the five-position button, it’s clear what each of the “directions” does, so I won’t comment on anything.
Yes, I almost forgot. There is also a subtle button for instant transition to the video recording mode, but it is located in the “dead zone”, which, in principle, is good - you can’t accidentally press it. Of the interface connectors there are USB and HDMI, both with a micro prefix.
What about the existing camera controls? There is nothing superfluous, everything you need is at hand, all buttons are pressed with a clear impact, all the switches allow you to work with the camera “blindly”.
Am I ready to call usability perfect? No, not ready. Retro-design has made its own corrections, and I would like to move some elements a bit, smooth some edges, and make the “handle” more anatomical. But if you do not pay attention to these little things, then the camera just perfectly lies in the hand, and, of course, after some getting used to it, it can be used as easily as any crop DSLR in “manual” mode. ISO jumps on a configurable button, white balance copes well in automatic mode, aperture and shutter speed are available both on the “wheel 3 + button” and through the iFN on the lens ... what else is needed for happiness? :)
The main mode of interest to me in the NX300 - manual - is implemented quite conveniently. If the software is implemented at 8 out of 10 points, and there’s nothing to discuss in it, then it’s the manual mode that allows you to get the most out of the camera and get the pictures as close as possible to what you want to see as a result - what you can and should consider in detail.
Firstly, the main settings of the manual mode - ISO, shutter speed and aperture are in 1-2 clicks and, importantly, they are duplicated in two places.
In the “classic” mode, we select the shutter speed with the upper wheel, with the “aperture” button held down, we adjust the aperture to it, after assigning the ISO to one of the camera buttons, it can also correct the photosensitivity (and, within very large limits). In addition, by setting in the camera menu what to display by pressing the iFN button, all the same (and some other) characteristics can be adjusted by pressing iFN on the lens and rotating the focus ring (it has no direct connection with the lens system, which is achieved similar multifunctionality). In addition, nothing prevents spreading the shutter speed and aperture control into two different “wheels”, although this does not save you from having to press iFN to adjust the aperture.
Secondly, the autofocus (and manual focus) system here is represented by an extremely tricky (and, in my opinion, very convenient) hybrid system: phase sensors built into the photosensitive matrix itself + accurate contrast autofocus coupled with a fast DRIMe IV processor allow fast and accurate focus even on a flying bird, a playing dog or running children. The mechanism of manual adjustment of focus is also interesting. After the indication of “triggered” autofocus, when you start to rotate the focus ring, the camera will zoom in on the fragment you are focusing on (magnification, if the memory does not change, x5), and will emphasize the image zones that have fallen into the contrast focus zone. It is difficult to describe in words, to convey in a video - too: you just need to touch it live. Due to the lack of direct connection of the focus ring with the optics (the ring you only give a command for the STM or USM motor in the glass to shift the optical system), you can surgically “target” the desired object. The absence of “friction” in the system, the ease and reduced “gear ratio” (honestly, I don’t know how to put it in words) allows you to adjust the focus as precisely as possible, and the help system by highlighting the contrasting borders + zoom in the selected area only simplifies this process and allows you to get perfectly focused shots, even for people with low vision.
Thirdly, I would like to mention the electronic urn system on the screen. Since the camera does not have an optical viewfinder, and the whole layout is in LiveView mode, an overlay electronic horizon with a grid comes in handy: you can fill up the horizon with such an assistant either intentionally or on a ship in a storm. The system is very sensitive and perfectly shows the “correct” position of the horizon.
SRW is Samsung's proprietary RAW file format. It opens perfectly with Photoshop or Lightroom after the corresponding update of Adobe Camera RAW.
Files themselves in most cases last almost 2.5-3 stops of exposure without a strong loss of quality. With the upgrade of the camera software to version 1.3, their average size fluctuates around 23 megabytes, and the camera’s buffer stops choking after 3-4 frames and starts recording pictures on the memory card much faster, but the general “plug” after the buffer is exhausted (and the inability to continue shooting, until the frames from the buffer are recorded on the memory card), unfortunately, did not go anywhere. I do not think that this problem will be fixed programmatically in the next version of the firmware - rather, you will have to wait for the NX400, in which there will be a hardware increase in the frame buffer, and they will do something with recording frames on a memory card. So far, she is not happy with speed ...
I think it's time to show you the shots that are made on the NX300. All of them are taken from the social network 500PX.com, you can find them through the search.
My own shots will be in a post with lenses. ;)
Given the fact that the NX2000 is a simpler (and therefore cheaper) camera than the NX300, is it worth taking it, or is it better to pay extra and take the flagship?
The average price on Yandex.Market for the NX2000 is about 17 kilo rubles per whale kit.
Three hundred will rise to 23 thousand rubles. The difference - about 6 thousand rubles - almost a third of the price of a younger model. For 6 thousand rubles you will receive: a rejected display of a smaller size (and resolution), a more “adult” set of hardware buttons that allows you to quickly and conveniently configure the camera in the “adult” mode and phase autofocus. Well, a more serious appearance.
Frame quality, SMART functionality, supported lenses and accessories - everything will remain the same. Is it worth paying several thousand rubles for these improvements? Maybe. Is it worth paying a third of the price of a camera? Not sure. If the difference was only 3-4 thousand rubles, then there would be no doubt: the NX2000 could be bought with a clear understanding “I don’t need all these features of the NX300” or if there is no need for certain functions. They would take the camera because it “look so pink!” or just falls under the budget. But the difference of 6 thousand rubles makes you seriously think: why do you take a mirrorless camera with interchangeable lenses, and do you need to pay extra for functions that you will not use? If the answer is “I take it instead of a SLR so as not to drag a kilogram carcass, and I know how the aperture differs from shutter speed ”, then most likely you should lean toward acquiring an older model. If you take a mirrorless camera as a second camera, as a “home” camera for all occasions, as a simple camera, without a sight for interchangeable lenses, then the NX2000 is your choice.
That's all for now. In the next issue, we will talk about the available lenses, their features and accessories for the NX-series cameras.
Tell me, do you use a camera? Almost certainly - yes: if not a separate device, then the smartphone’s camera for sure. Today, photography does not require the user to know even basic concepts such as “shutter speed”, “aperture”, “focal length” - the software is more or less successfully solving, and hundreds of millions of people use the services of scientific and technological progress without even thinking about what is hidden under the hood of their devices.
On the one hand, it’s good: you want to live easier and take pictures without thinking about exposure or white balance. The world is living more and more dynamic, and interesting shots can slip away in just a few seconds. On the other hand, the Internet will soon end up with free space due to the variety of terrible photos taken with crooked hands in the absence of any taste and skill of users. :) But the discussion in this post is by no means about them, but about two mirrorless cameras from Samsung - the NX300 and NX2000, as well as the Samsung NX system itself, which includes accessories, lenses, and cameras. Well, from the screw?
Yes, I almost forgot! The post turned out to be so huge that it had to be divided into three parts (maybe there will be a fourth part - the bonus one), so today I’ll talk about the general theory, design features of the cameras, the process of working with the camera, pieces of iron and present a few frames to your judgment . In the following posts I’ll tell you about optics, its features and capabilities, and about SMART functionality for a snack.
During the testing with the weather, of course, I had no luck at all, so that part of the staff I honestly will snitch from similar reviews from other resources, and I will give some explanations if they are needed. Well now ... let's go!
Mirrorless
The boom on “mirrorless mirrors” began about five years ago. One of the manufacturers was deeply thoughtful and suggested: “And let's leave the APS-C matrix, throw out the mirror, and let them shoot everything through Live View.” For some reason, a new class of devices appeared - mirrorless digital cameras with interchangeable lenses. On the one hand, there is a processor and a matrix from the DSLR inside, on the other hand, there is no mirror or optical viewfinder, the working length is shorter - in general, a whole set of compromises that posed a very specific range of engineering tasks for developers. What to do with autofocus? What mount to use for lenses? How to modify the software so that it is convenient to use the camera with a reduced number of controls? How and where to place controls?
Smart cameras
The second class that I would like to mention before moving on to the direct description of the NX series is, in fact, smart cameras. Cameras capable of not only “creating” content, but also processing it (within certain limits), and immediately sharing it (with other devices via Wi-Fi / Bluetooth, Internet services such as Flickr or YouTube, as well as uploading it to social network). In a way, these are “smartphones” among ordinary cameras. The most-smart ones are Android cameras (about GALAXY NX later there will be separate material), but “less smart” are both some “soap dishes” and mirrorless ones like the NX2000, and even monsters like Canon EOS 6D with its built-in Wi- Fi, GPS and special software for uploading photos directly to a smartphone or tablet). I will talk about SMART functionality later.
Nx2000
Let's start with the younger model: I spent only a couple of days with it, and of course, the “photoflagman” NX300 is of interest, first of all, so let's take a look at the “two thousandth”, its main features, and move on.
The main characteristics of the camera are as follows:
| Matrix type | CMOS |
| Resolution | 5472x3648 pixels, 20.3 MPx |
| ISO Supported | 100 -: - 3200, extended - 6400, 12800 25600 |
| Bayonet mount | Samsung NX |
| Excerpt | 30 - 1/4000 seconds |
| Memory card type | MicroSD, MicroSDHC, MicroSDXC |
| Image formats | JPEG, RAW (.srw) |
| Video formats | MP4, 1080p, 720p, up to 30 frames per second |
Unfortunately, not everything is so simple and beautiful: autofocus is contrasting, i.e. differs in gradual leisurelyness. By the way, the NEX7 camera from Sony has the same problem. In fact, not everything is so bad, but after hybrid phase-contrast systems in the NX300 and some other models of this form factor, there may be slight irritation due to the thoughtfulness of the camera.
However, if you don’t use two cameras at once, then after a day or two there is practically no sense of “slow drain” - yet modern mobile processors have become much faster, and software developers are not in vain eating their bread: the system focuses, it does it well enough, and reporting Leave the shooting to those who were adapted for it from birth. :) In addition, contrast autofocus does not require costly improvements to the matrix and the installation of phase sensors in it, which significantly affects the price of the final device.
Appearance, housing, usability
The camera looks very simple in appearance: a few control buttons, a huge touch screen, a bayonet mount - that's all. No tricky switches, no tilt or swivel display: minimalism, accuracy, simplicity.
By the way, there is no built-in flash either, but there is an external flash in the kit. It is mounted via Smart Shoe - an external port for smart accessories. The module itself looks very neat, takes a minimum of space in a “separate” position, and generally shows good results for its modest size.
The controls are represented by the following elements:
- Movable on / off lever combined with the shutter / autofocus button;
- The mode dial (electronic, because it has no marks or restrictions on scrolling in one direction);
- Recessed Direct Link button, which includes a pre-selected mode of interaction with wireless networks;
- The buttons on the “back” panel are: video recording, “home” and “gallery”.
Another button is located on the lens itself, called iFN, and its functionality is configured in the menu. All other counter on ly brought to the big, bright touch screen.
Most of all I was embarrassed by this “flu” section. In theory, the thumb should lie here. In practice, I was constantly trying to “press” a nonexistent button, but in place of this “little thing” you could hang a couple of custom buttons that would make it easier to control the camera.
BY
Soft cameras can be roughly divided into three large “sections”. The first is shooting in “general” modes, various program machines and functions when shooting in the style of “let the camera think for me”. The second is shooting in a completely manual mode “like on a DSLR”. That is, you choose the shutter speed and / or aperture yourself, adjust the ISO and generally get full control over the camera. The third is the “post-shooting” section: processing of finished pictures, sharing via wireless connections and other “smart chips”. All three sections are united by a common part, which can be called the camera OS. I have a suspicion that inside is a deeply customized truncated / doped Linux.
Software machine
The main control element is the “ring” on the top of the camera, which rotates without restriction in any direction and is not marked; when it is rotated, the display shows the current (and, accordingly, the next and previous modes) shooting. In this regard, the camera is completely "casual". Available shooting modes are SmartAuto (the so-called “green mode”, in which the camera selects all parameters as it sees fit), SmartScene (a full-fledged software, in the sub-menu of which you can select a shooting scenario in the touch screen, and the camera will already select the appropriate parameters and displays shooting tips if it considers necessary), Wi-Fi connection mode, video recording mode (which is duplicated separately on the “red button”, and “expert” mode, in which, “priority” is stored excerpts " “Aperture priority” and “fully manual” sub-modes of shooting. We’ll talk about them a little later, since they practically do not differ from the NX300, with which I basically talked all this time.
Firstly, the completely “green” mode gives decent shots in 90% of cases. The automatic white balance, shutter speed and aperture, depending on the scene and focal length (+ distance that the optics focused on), combined with not the fastest but the most accurate contrast autofocus, do their job. In addition, a relatively large matrix (APS-C, crop factor 1.6), and a smart processor that processes the signal from it, even with contrast autofocus, do not feel “disabled” in terms of auto focus. In addition, contrast aperture (as opposed to phase) does not matter aperture and light level? - there would be contrasting elements in the frame, and he could focus. The speed limit mainly rests on the speed of movement of the objective lenses and image analysis.
Secondly, the scene modes (SmartScene) also allow you to get good shots in the remaining 10% of cases: the camera stops playing the “guessing game” and obediently pinches the “hole” for landscape photography, opens it for portraits, successfully selects shutter speed for shooting dynamic objects and generally behaves appropriately and predictably.
It’s quite realistic to give such a camera to parents who aren’t the most technically savvy on vacation, providing them with a brief instruction “where to reap”, and they will bring back successful shots enough to score another album of vivid impressions of Egypt or Turkey, even if they use only the automatic shooting mode .
SMART functionality
The post-processing and sharing functions are largely similar to those in the NX300, unless onWith a larger display, the NX2000 is a bit nicer to work with. Firstly, it is worth noting that the term “post-processing” itself is somewhat incorrect: many of the effects, settings and filters can be applied BEFORE shooting, adjusting color reproduction, contrast, brightness, saturation and many other parameters through the menu. Secondly, photo editing options differ for JPEG and RAW files. The second, in addition to filters, color settings and other little things can be fully “dragged” by several parameters, as in Photoshop or lightroom. I would not say that this is essential functionality, but on a trip, without a laptop or tablet, having hooked up to Wi-Fi in a cafe, you can “process” it well and put the photo on the Internet directly from the camera. We'll talk about all this in more detail when we consider the NX300.
Subtotals
Well, what are your impressions? My imho is this: the NX2000 is an extremely simple version of the more “adult” mirrorless NX300: it is as focused on the “plug and play” style of use as possible, and it inherited the expert shooting mode from the older camera, on the principle that “the feature is better than her absence ”, and if there is a camera with similar entrails, why not transfer the functionality, in fact. But, with all this “casualness”, the NX2000 makes exactly the same good and clear shots, surprisingly confidently works in the “green mode” and has in stock SMART-functionality and wireless interfaces.
Yes, the hardware control is maximally simplified to please the large touch screen and automatic shooting mode, but if necessary, the camera can instantly turn into an “adult” by providing the full range of settings available on entry-level and mid-range SLR cameras (for Canon, let this there will be 1000 and 500-600-700 series). In addition, the “two thousandth” uses microSD cards:
Nx300
Well, we got to the "big brother". I’ve already spoiled some of the differences for you, some haven’t yet, so we'll sort it out in order.
Appearance, housing, usability
If the NX2000 is a child of plastic and a classic representative of the “middle segment”, then the NX300 shines with noble materials and a retro design: metal, “under the skin” coating, “adult” set of controls, a neat and reliable rotary screen mechanism.
On the top face - as many as five camera controls.
- Combined with a focus and shutter button, a sliding power switch;
- Actually, the focus / shutter button;
- Wheel to control the active function of the camera;
- Marked wheel for selecting shooting modes;
- Recessed button for quick activation of wireless functionality.
As for the above items, I have no complaints: the first, second and fourth elements are implemented almost perfectly. The adjustment wheel hiding behind the number 3, in my opinion, rotates too easily - it would have a slightly more noticeable / tangible “click” on the division and not such a “deep” fit into the camera body - and it would be simply gorgeous.
But point number 5 is still a misunderstanding, but we will return to it a little later.
On the back panel, in addition to the touchscreen (which can be deviated 90 degrees up and 45 degrees down from its original position), there is a five-position multi-function button that provides navigation through menus and settings, as well as quick access to some functions, buttons for moving to the gallery, the button for deleting the photo, the FN button, the button for switching to the main menu of the camera and the button that selects the mode of operation of the number 3 wheel from the last paragraph - adjusts shutter speed or aperture. You can reassign / reassign other functions to most of the available buttons through the main menu, thus gaining access to almost any function in one click.
In principle, according to the icons / signatures on the five-position button, it’s clear what each of the “directions” does, so I won’t comment on anything.
Yes, I almost forgot. There is also a subtle button for instant transition to the video recording mode, but it is located in the “dead zone”, which, in principle, is good - you can’t accidentally press it. Of the interface connectors there are USB and HDMI, both with a micro prefix.
What about the existing camera controls? There is nothing superfluous, everything you need is at hand, all buttons are pressed with a clear impact, all the switches allow you to work with the camera “blindly”.
Am I ready to call usability perfect? No, not ready. Retro-design has made its own corrections, and I would like to move some elements a bit, smooth some edges, and make the “handle” more anatomical. But if you do not pay attention to these little things, then the camera just perfectly lies in the hand, and, of course, after some getting used to it, it can be used as easily as any crop DSLR in “manual” mode. ISO jumps on a configurable button, white balance copes well in automatic mode, aperture and shutter speed are available both on the “wheel 3 + button” and through the iFN on the lens ... what else is needed for happiness? :)
Work with camera
The main mode of interest to me in the NX300 - manual - is implemented quite conveniently. If the software is implemented at 8 out of 10 points, and there’s nothing to discuss in it, then it’s the manual mode that allows you to get the most out of the camera and get the pictures as close as possible to what you want to see as a result - what you can and should consider in detail.
Firstly, the main settings of the manual mode - ISO, shutter speed and aperture are in 1-2 clicks and, importantly, they are duplicated in two places.
In the “classic” mode, we select the shutter speed with the upper wheel, with the “aperture” button held down, we adjust the aperture to it, after assigning the ISO to one of the camera buttons, it can also correct the photosensitivity (and, within very large limits). In addition, by setting in the camera menu what to display by pressing the iFN button, all the same (and some other) characteristics can be adjusted by pressing iFN on the lens and rotating the focus ring (it has no direct connection with the lens system, which is achieved similar multifunctionality). In addition, nothing prevents spreading the shutter speed and aperture control into two different “wheels”, although this does not save you from having to press iFN to adjust the aperture.
Secondly, the autofocus (and manual focus) system here is represented by an extremely tricky (and, in my opinion, very convenient) hybrid system: phase sensors built into the photosensitive matrix itself + accurate contrast autofocus coupled with a fast DRIMe IV processor allow fast and accurate focus even on a flying bird, a playing dog or running children. The mechanism of manual adjustment of focus is also interesting. After the indication of “triggered” autofocus, when you start to rotate the focus ring, the camera will zoom in on the fragment you are focusing on (magnification, if the memory does not change, x5), and will emphasize the image zones that have fallen into the contrast focus zone. It is difficult to describe in words, to convey in a video - too: you just need to touch it live. Due to the lack of direct connection of the focus ring with the optics (the ring you only give a command for the STM or USM motor in the glass to shift the optical system), you can surgically “target” the desired object. The absence of “friction” in the system, the ease and reduced “gear ratio” (honestly, I don’t know how to put it in words) allows you to adjust the focus as precisely as possible, and the help system by highlighting the contrasting borders + zoom in the selected area only simplifies this process and allows you to get perfectly focused shots, even for people with low vision.
Thirdly, I would like to mention the electronic urn system on the screen. Since the camera does not have an optical viewfinder, and the whole layout is in LiveView mode, an overlay electronic horizon with a grid comes in handy: you can fill up the horizon with such an assistant either intentionally or on a ship in a storm. The system is very sensitive and perfectly shows the “correct” position of the horizon.
Shooting in RAW and SRW files
SRW is Samsung's proprietary RAW file format. It opens perfectly with Photoshop or Lightroom after the corresponding update of Adobe Camera RAW.
Files themselves in most cases last almost 2.5-3 stops of exposure without a strong loss of quality. With the upgrade of the camera software to version 1.3, their average size fluctuates around 23 megabytes, and the camera’s buffer stops choking after 3-4 frames and starts recording pictures on the memory card much faster, but the general “plug” after the buffer is exhausted (and the inability to continue shooting, until the frames from the buffer are recorded on the memory card), unfortunately, did not go anywhere. I do not think that this problem will be fixed programmatically in the next version of the firmware - rather, you will have to wait for the NX400, in which there will be a hardware increase in the frame buffer, and they will do something with recording frames on a memory card. So far, she is not happy with speed ...
Photo
I think it's time to show you the shots that are made on the NX300. All of them are taken from the social network 500PX.com, you can find them through the search.
My own shots will be in a post with lenses. ;)
Hidden text
I honestly tried to make all the pictures clickable, but after a while 500px shows 404. :(
Price quality
Given the fact that the NX2000 is a simpler (and therefore cheaper) camera than the NX300, is it worth taking it, or is it better to pay extra and take the flagship?
The average price on Yandex.Market for the NX2000 is about 17 kilo rubles per whale kit.
Three hundred will rise to 23 thousand rubles. The difference - about 6 thousand rubles - almost a third of the price of a younger model. For 6 thousand rubles you will receive: a rejected display of a smaller size (and resolution), a more “adult” set of hardware buttons that allows you to quickly and conveniently configure the camera in the “adult” mode and phase autofocus. Well, a more serious appearance.
Frame quality, SMART functionality, supported lenses and accessories - everything will remain the same. Is it worth paying several thousand rubles for these improvements? Maybe. Is it worth paying a third of the price of a camera? Not sure. If the difference was only 3-4 thousand rubles, then there would be no doubt: the NX2000 could be bought with a clear understanding “I don’t need all these features of the NX300” or if there is no need for certain functions. They would take the camera because it “look so pink!” or just falls under the budget. But the difference of 6 thousand rubles makes you seriously think: why do you take a mirrorless camera with interchangeable lenses, and do you need to pay extra for functions that you will not use? If the answer is “I take it instead of a SLR so as not to drag a kilogram carcass, and I know how the aperture differs from shutter speed ”, then most likely you should lean toward acquiring an older model. If you take a mirrorless camera as a second camera, as a “home” camera for all occasions, as a simple camera, without a sight for interchangeable lenses, then the NX2000 is your choice.
Instead of a conclusion
That's all for now. In the next issue, we will talk about the available lenses, their features and accessories for the NX-series cameras.
