January 26, 2010 at 16:26Oh youth! Modding Siemens SL45
I decided to make my first post on Habré not quite ordinary, it just so happened - I stumbled upon my old-old website blog, made back in 2002 on a free hosting by one of the many site designers.
The post was dedicated to modding the then-current Siemens SL45, popularly SLIK or Donkey.
I ask you not to criticize strongly for the quality of the pictures, then I didn’t have a digital soapbox and I shot all this on a video camera, and the still images were pulled from the video sequence. Yes, and spelling and style were left untouched, with the exception of some obvious errors and inaccuracies.
What is required:
This is what I painted:
On the left, by the way, is a spray bottle with liquid for cleaning radio circuit boards from grease and other contaminants, I am sure it will come in handy too.
The second and third on the left are spray cans with black and red paint from ABRO, but better for better. If the red lay down well, then I shot the black two times and eventually acquired “SADOLYN” - it went down perfectly the first time (fourth spray).
Fifth, “MOTIP” varnish, covered red paint, black looks great without varnish, plus its strength was higher than the combination of red paint + varnish.
On the left is the “new” used building)), in the center is the original “slick”, on the right is the experimental model, already painted and with a sawed-off antenna.
This is what happens if you do not remove its native coating: copper and silver on top. Paint peels off in a swoop:
So, the process itself.
Peeling off the coating:
To clean complex surfaces, you can use ferric chloride, it is used in the radio module to etch the tracks in the board. You need to use it very carefully, as it corrodes metal surfaces very effectively! If a drop falls on the Slick board, you can safely throw it away, it is almost impossible to restore such thin tracks.
Skin everything:
Now you can paint!
Final result.
Do not forget to clean the holes against the microphone:
By the way, I changed the backlight before painting. The display is highlighted in white, the keyboard turns from blue to orange and then to red:
By the way, on the new case there was an ear for a “noose” on the neck:
That's all.
The post was dedicated to modding the then-current Siemens SL45, popularly SLIK or Donkey.
I ask you not to criticize strongly for the quality of the pictures, then I didn’t have a digital soapbox and I shot all this on a video camera, and the still images were pulled from the video sequence. Yes, and spelling and style were left untouched, with the exception of some obvious errors and inaccuracies.
What is required:
- Subject as such.
- The second (third, fourth) case depends on the quality of the device “direct hands”.
- Openers (flat screwdriver, knife), there are no screws in the “slick”.
- Spray (s) with paint.
- Lacquer? (depends on the quality of the paint and the desire to get a certain result).
- Clean, ventilated (required) room.
- The skin is null.
- Desire as such and patience.
This is what I painted:
On the left, by the way, is a spray bottle with liquid for cleaning radio circuit boards from grease and other contaminants, I am sure it will come in handy too.
The second and third on the left are spray cans with black and red paint from ABRO, but better for better. If the red lay down well, then I shot the black two times and eventually acquired “SADOLYN” - it went down perfectly the first time (fourth spray).
Fifth, “MOTIP” varnish, covered red paint, black looks great without varnish, plus its strength was higher than the combination of red paint + varnish.
On the left is the “new” used building)), in the center is the original “slick”, on the right is the experimental model, already painted and with a sawed-off antenna.
This is what happens if you do not remove its native coating: copper and silver on top. Paint peels off in a swoop:
So, the process itself.
Peeling off the coating:
To clean complex surfaces, you can use ferric chloride, it is used in the radio module to etch the tracks in the board. You need to use it very carefully, as it corrodes metal surfaces very effectively! If a drop falls on the Slick board, you can safely throw it away, it is almost impossible to restore such thin tracks.
Skin everything:
Now you can paint!
Final result.
Do not forget to clean the holes against the microphone:
By the way, I changed the backlight before painting. The display is highlighted in white, the keyboard turns from blue to orange and then to red:
By the way, on the new case there was an ear for a “noose” on the neck:
That's all.