To work on a bicycle. Another opinion


Attention! This is not a post author!

Introduction


The article is not about electric vehicles. Electric bicycles live somewhere in neighboring topics.
A colleague of RicoScrewdriver has published a good article about trips to work by bicycle. But I take the liberty of writing a similar opus, but from the point of view of a keen rolled man who considers a bicycle not only as a transport. Let's just say this is the opinion of an amateur with a tenacity above average.

It all started prosaically. Once, on a warm March day in 2016, somewhere between the convolutions of the brain warmed up by the first sun rays, itching appeared. I recalled my childhood. Not all, but those moments when I rode a bicycle. It was a long time and in recent years my main transport to work was the train, subway and legs. And I suggested my wife buy a bike. So we became the owners of two MTB (in the common people "mountain") devices of the "Hardtail" type. In the beginning there were light pokatushki around the city and the Elk Island park. Each time it was interesting to drop into the unprecedented corners of the city and the nearest suburbs. Then I didn’t think that it was so easy to go to work. But such thoughts once appeared. I looked at the map, saw there "Elk Island", he beckoned. And I succumbed. Paper cutting became a revelation for me. Asphalt road in the forest. So I drove from Korolev to Sokolniki Park, and there it was a stone's throw to the Dobryninskaya metro station, where I worked then. And it began. Over the past time and thousands of kilometers, a certain experience and opinion has appeared, which I will try to share.

What to choose


There are never many bicycles. You will understand this if a hobby appears . Since here we are considering more of the option of riding to work, we can ignore their specific types, leaving, IMHO, the following options:

  • MTB. T. n. "Mountain bike. It only happens with a shock absorber in the front (hardtail), or it can also have a shock absorber for the rear wheel ("double suspension"). If on your way there is no crazy amount of roots, deep dirt, terrifying appearance of asphalt, then you do not need it. If there is only a small area (two, three) with such conditions, then you still do not need it. Not only do adequately working shock absorbers (they come in different types) cost quite serious money, they also need to be qualified to service. And it's overweight, which will be a separate chapter.
  • Highway. It differs from MTB in a different frame geometry, lack of cushioning, and another steering wheel (ram), which gives greater grip variability, adding comfort. Its initial element is asphalt roads, but nothing will happen to it from light and small sections of average off-road.
  • Single speed, in advanced cases, fix. Take it if you want to spend a minimum of money, but keep in mind that you should not drive too dynamically on this type, these species have one speed (fixed gear), take care of your knees. Fix differs from single speed in the absence of free rotation of the wheel separately from the pedals. That is, if the wheel rotates, then you have to rotate the pedals. This can be traumatic, especially on a hill. Of the advantages, I see only reduced weight and mechanics of reduced complexity.
  • Bicycle with a planetary hub. A very good option for those who maximize just to ride. Without trying to achieve any high results. It’s wonderful for the “gearbox” hidden inside the rear wheel hub, which allows you to switch even while standing still (for example, for an easy start, if you forgot to throw off the gear in advance). An equally significant plus is the simplification of the chain drive. Just two stars, as on single speed, a more durable and wear-resistant chain. Reliability, simplicity and extended service intervals. Sometimes a chain drive can be replaced with a belt drive, which makes it almost impossible to recall a transmission.
  • There are also Grevels, Citibikes, and Hybrids. The author has practically no experience riding these varieties, so he can’t say anything about them, he remains at the mercy of independent study

Bike weight


And here are a lot of opinions, let's understand. In principle, the lighter the bike, the better, but there is a certain limit beyond which the price increase for such a device becomes very large, and the weight reduction is very small. Also, many components of the ultralight (and super expensive) class have a limit on the maximum weight of the rider (usually about 70-80 kilograms). The most important is the mass of the wheels. After all, wheels are a flywheel that you will need to spin at each acceleration, and you will have these accelerations constantly. And the lighter this flywheel, the more pleasant you are. The weight of the frame and other components is not so important, but, you see, it’s rather silly to have good and light wheels and a “cast-iron”, heavy frame. Everything should be optimal and balanced. For myself, I consider optimal the mass of MTB is less than 12 kg and the mass of the roadway is less than 9 kg. But again, do not chase the minimum, especially at the beginning of your bike path. It is important to understand that it is not the bike that moves on its own. The system moves from a cyclist and a bicycle. Their masses are folded, and the larger it is, the less influence the mass of the bicycle itself has. Wrong will be those who believe that a bicycle of 20 kg is not much different from 12 kg. I have an MTB and a highway, so when I change between them, I feel a huge difference in dynamism and lightness, of course, not in favor of the first. And this difference is only about 6 kg, so the summary: do not neglect the mass of the bike, the lighter version will give you more pleasure and comfort, but also do not cultivate it, remember that the most important thing is the mass of the wheels, the rest is less valuable. The system moves from a cyclist and a bicycle. Their masses are folded, and the larger it is, the less influence the mass of the bicycle itself has. Wrong will be those who believe that a bicycle of 20 kg is not much different from 12 kg. I have an MTB and a highway, so when I change between them, I feel a huge difference in dynamism and lightness, of course, not in favor of the first. And this difference is only about 6 kg, so the summary: do not neglect the mass of the bike, the lighter version will give you more pleasure and comfort, but also do not cultivate it, remember that the most important thing is the mass of the wheels, the rest is less valuable. The system moves from a cyclist and a bicycle. Their masses are folded, and the larger it is, the less influence the mass of the bicycle itself has. Wrong will be those who believe that a bicycle of 20 kg is not much different from 12 kg. I have an MTB and a highway, so when I change between them, I feel a huge difference in dynamism and lightness, of course, not in favor of the first. And this difference is only about 6 kg, so the summary: do not neglect the mass of the bike, the lighter version will give you more pleasure and comfort, but also do not cultivate it, remember that the most important thing is the mass of the wheels, the rest is less valuable. I have an MTB and a highway, so when I change between them, I feel a huge difference in dynamism and lightness, of course, not in favor of the first. And this difference is only about 6 kg, so the summary: do not neglect the mass of the bike, the lighter version will give you more pleasure and comfort, but also do not cultivate it, remember that the most important thing is the mass of the wheels, the rest is less valuable. I have an MTB and a highway, so when I change between them, I feel a huge difference in dynamism and lightness, of course, not in favor of the first. And this difference is only about 6 kg, so the summary: do not neglect the mass of the bike, the lighter version will give you more pleasure and comfort, but also do not cultivate it, remember that the most important thing is the mass of the wheels, the rest is less valuable.

Materials


The most common are aluminum alloys and carbon. If the means allow, it is better to carbon, but a normal aluminum frame for beginners will be quite a choice, it is not worth chasing carbon fiber from the last forces, but if possible, it is better to pay extra for it.

Manufacturer


Any bicycle brand. Except one - the so-called. Auchanbayks. These are bike simulators sold in large chain stores. They differ from real bicycles in carcass weight, low reliability (and hence poor safety) and low resource of all components. Do not. Of course, the possession of well-known (and not so) top brands warms the soul, they are beautiful, reliable, have interesting and useful technical solutions, but they should be taken if you are not financially constrained and know exactly what you need. Mid-tier manufacturers are also quite suitable. I'm afraid that listing manufacturers will go beyond community rules.

How many speeds? Why so many?


At the dawn of the 3rd system (three stars in front), the number of speeds in a bicycle could reach 33. Many, but not quite so. Actually of this amount is used (usually) no more than a third. What is important to us? The gear ratio in the transmission is important. And in the version with 33 speeds there were a lot of "duplicate", almost the same gear ratios, which were almost never used. In a multi-speed transmission of a bicycle during normal riding, it is not recommended to strongly skew the chain (for example, put it on the front and rear largest stars) - this leads to increased wear of all transmission elements. Thus, a few more speeds from our set decreases. As a result, it turns out that out of 33 possible options for installing the circuit, 8-12 reasonable can be used. At the moment, 3 stars in front in new bicycles I have not seen, there is even a tendency on MTB to switch to one leading front chainring, which allows you to get rid of the front derailleur, while on a road bike so far, optimally 2 leading stars. Also in the top transmission kits, you can increasingly see 12 speed options (meaning the number of stars in the back). For MTB, this allows you to increase the range of gear ratios, and for drivers to reduce the steps when switching between stars (sometimes it happens that the current gear is too high cadence (cadence), and the next one, although it is lower, is hard to turn). It also increases the available range of gear ratios, which allows you to drive very slowly (with an adequate cadence) and very quickly (as much as preparation allows). which allows you to get rid of the front derailleur, while on a road bike so far, optimally 2 leading stars. Also in the top transmission kits, you can increasingly see 12 speed options (meaning the number of stars in the back). For MTB, this allows you to increase the range of gear ratios, and for drivers to reduce the steps when switching between stars (sometimes it happens that the current gear is too high cadence (cadence), and the next one, although it is lower, is hard to turn). It also increases the available range of gear ratios, which allows you to drive very slowly (with an adequate cadence) and very quickly (as much as preparation allows). which allows you to get rid of the front derailleur, while on a road bike so far, optimally 2 leading stars. Also in the top transmission kits, you can increasingly see 12 speed options (meaning the number of stars in the back). For MTB, this allows you to increase the range of gear ratios, and for drivers to reduce the steps when switching between stars (sometimes it happens that the current gear is too high cadence (cadence), and the next one, although it is lower, is hard to turn). It also increases the available range of gear ratios, which allows you to drive very slowly (with an adequate cadence) and very quickly (as much as preparation allows). Also in the top transmission kits, you can increasingly see 12 speed options (meaning the number of stars in the back). For MTB, this allows you to increase the range of gear ratios, and for drivers to reduce the steps when switching between stars (sometimes it happens that the current gear is too high cadence (cadence), and the next one, although it is lower, is hard to turn). It also increases the available range of gear ratios, which allows you to drive very slowly (with an adequate cadence) and very quickly (as much as preparation allows). Also in the top transmission kits, you can increasingly see 12 speed options (meaning the number of stars in the back). For MTB, this allows you to increase the range of gear ratios, and for drivers to reduce the steps when switching between stars (sometimes it happens that the current gear is too high cadence (cadence), and the next one, although it is lower, is hard to turn). It also increases the available range of gear ratios, which allows you to drive very slowly (with an adequate cadence) and very quickly (as much as preparation allows). although it is lower, it’s hard to twist). It also increases the available range of gear ratios, which allows you to drive very slowly (with an adequate cadence) and very quickly (as much as preparation allows). although it is lower, it’s hard to twist). It also increases the available range of gear ratios, which allows you to drive very slowly (with an adequate cadence) and very quickly (as much as preparation allows).

Initially, I did not plan to write about the choice of a bicycle, but, seeing the mass skating of people on MTB, I could not resist. Historically, after the fall of the Iron Curtain on the territory of the ex-USSR, it was this type of bike that first appeared, becoming, a posteriori, the "default value" when choosing beginners. Although, in most cases, not being optimal. Pay attention to other species. And especially on the highway.

I want a bike to work, but I don’t have a shower!


And I do not. In this case, washing above the sink and wiping with a wet towel helps. No problem. If your city has a bike rental (or a bicycle you lend to you), you can pre-arrange a test period for yourself.

clothing


I highly recommend a specialized bike uniform. In this case, use shorts with the so-called. “Diaper” - a specialized tab sewn into the perineal region. Its main purpose is to remove moisture from contact with the skin, which will prevent the appearance of various troubles in the form of rubbing. The bonus is a light cushioning ass. Overalls are very comfortable, you quickly get used to it, and there is no desire to return back. Once I went home in jeans. It was suffering - very uncomfortable after normal cycling. And gloves are very necessary. Better with full, not cropped fingers. How many times have I been thankful for saving me from decent abrasions! If your hands sweat in these, then there are well-ventilated, but nonetheless full-sized models. I recommend cycling shorts with straps - this is more convenient (nothing slides).

Helmet


At one of the intersections, waiting for a traffic light, the car driver asked me about the helmet. Like why did he tell me. I took off and showed scratches on it from small drops, this explanation was enough for him. We won’t talk about high speeds, everything is clear there, wars often go about low, up to 20 km / h. "I have time to put up my hands." You have time. You expose. And one day, guaranteed, do not have time. I fell at different speeds, a helmet is needed. By the way, it is supposed to be changed after incidents, even if there are no visible damages, but few do so.

Saddle


First of all, after the first kilometers by bicycle, many go to the store for a wide, puffy and soft saddle. No need to do this. Human anatomy is designed so that our skeleton rests when sitting on the ischial bones. Wide and soft saddles are only deceptively comfortable. On them you sit not on the sciatic bones, but on the soft tissues, receiving unwanted processes in them that do not lead to anything good.

You need to find out the distance between these bones, for which there are different ways, many of which are perfectly shown on YouTube. To the obtained value, add about 20 mm and choose a saddle with approximately the same width. It should be tough enough, but not "wooden". And the first week, most likely, you will get used to it, you will probably be quite hurt. But you take and sit down, soon everything will work out and it will be wonderful. So I started 3 seasons in a row, and then I rode on one of the popular models, and fell in love with her. Bought, but still not fully rolled. I recommend trying saddles with a neckline, I personally liked it.

Ergonomics steering


The steering wheel is direct. I additionally installed horns on MTB (though not around the edges, but somewhat closer to the center, but this is my personal choice). They allowed me to change the grip, since during the trip my hands can run numb from a constant position. And the horns are not placed vertically - this will be a bad option for your joints of the hand.
The same (usually rubber) linings at the ends of the steering wheel (grips) that you hold on to are also ergonomic - it can come in handy if your hands on standard ones are uncomfortable.
The ram wheel is usually mounted on bicycles designed, including, and for high-speed movement. Usually it is not as wide as a straight line, therefore it allows to reduce the frontal projection area of ​​a cyclist, affecting aerodynamics. Has a wider grip variability.
Travelers often like another steering wheel option - a butterfly. Let's just say this is an option when you want a more straight back, but at the same time the broadest possible grip.
There is no better option among them, each is used for its intended purpose.

Petty not trifles


Glasses. I myself am a bespectacled man, so I initially forgot to add them. 3 times a season, I gratefully recall my glasses, having received a noticeable blow to the body of an insect in the lens. A barefoot childhood pops up in my memory - then a small midge flew into my eye. It is very unpleasant and painful! Vobschem points are needed.
Wings. If rain is not an obstacle to your trip, it is a must. Otherwise, you will be very dirty, especially from behind. And even if there is no rain. In Moscow, in Sokolniki Park in the morning, they constantly water the asphalt in the summer. This is enough for a dirty and wet back. I am for full-size, fixed wings. They protect better, they stand out less visually (who cares).
Bicycle light. In the dark, light is needed. I have repeatedly traveled around such flying Dutchs, emerging from the darkness a few meters from me. Nothing nice and very unsafe. There is a good, bright enough red signal at the back, and a headlight at the front. Either specialized, or, if on a budget, a flashlight. I use a flashlight to cover part of the lens when approaching oncoming ones. This is not very correct, and perhaps I will put a headlight with a normally formed light beam. Blind oncoming is not good.

Landing


The correct setting of the bike for yourself is very important. The network has a lot of materials, I highly recommend that you familiarize yourself with them.

If it gets boring


It seems to me that it is impossible to be in the cycling community and not to hear the word Strava. I was no exception, I heard him. But the first 700 kilometers of my modern cycle life somehow did without it. But curiosity overpowered. It turns out that this is a whole world where you can meet like-minded people, Sokatal people, find out who this frisky whistle overtook you tonight, while you thought you should be searched faster! And, sometimes, to meet their fate, yes, girls also use this social network.

And girls, which is typical, can!


And not only cyclists, runners and lovers of other sports. But most of all I was attracted by the possibility of correspondence competitions. Strava allows you to record your every trip, not only the GPS track, but also speed, as well as other parameters, depending on the sensors installed on the bike. And share them. Also, anyone can select a section of the path, make it public (or closed - only for themselves), and arrange absentee competitions. Anyone driving through this section will be entered in the table according to the achieved average speed. Pretty motivating and interesting thing. So I met some good people, made my trips more interesting!

Upgrade If passion is how you want to improve your bike


My first upgrade was a tire change. Initially, on my MTB there was a regular rubber with a developed tread. This is good for unstable soils, but those on my way became less and less. And I put the so-called. Half-slices. This rubber does not have lugs (rubber spikes) in the main area of ​​the contact spot, but it has them on the sides, which makes it possible to increase the ease and speed of travel on a hard surface, while leaving the opportunity to visit a dirt path of moderate “impassability”. It was a direct revelation for me! This is one of my best acquisitions.

Next, I was already sitting tight in the strava and replaced the bike computer. The new acquisition allowed me not to use a smartphone to record my pokatushek, as well as to be able to connect various sensors, since the most interesting thing in cycling is to look at the numbers.
A speed sensor (based on reading rpm from the wheel) and cadence (cadence) complemented the picture. Speed, of course, was not new, but cadence taught me the correct pedaling (to maintain the health of the knee joints, it is advisable to pedal at a speed of at least 70 revolutions per minute).

Somewhere at the same moment I switched to contact pedals. This is when the so-called special footwear is screwed on. spike that allows you to firmly fasten your foot to the pedal. By turning the heel outward, you can unfasten. Since then, I have not ridden on classic pedals anymore, as there are too many pluses and few minuses. This is the increased efficiency of pedaling (it becomes possible not only to press on the pedal, but also to pull it on the reverse stroke) and fixation of the foot on the pedals, but how many times my leg was torn off the usual top-knobs! Yes, in contact shoes, before stopping, you need to fasten your belts, at the beginning of a fall they are (usually at zero speed), but a conditioned reflex appears very quickly. And sometimes you fasten one leg, and begin to fall in the direction of the other - this is also funny. But these minuses are too insignificant to discard contact pedals from the account.

The next upgrade is the most expensive, perhaps unreasonable for the MTB level that I own, but since childhood I have a weakness for various servos. In general, an electric gearshift system was installed. This is when between the gear selector on the steering wheel and the switch itself are not cables, but wires. And switching is done with an electric servo. And yes, now I have to sometimes (about once every 1000-1500 km) charge the battery of this system in a bicycle. But I am very pleased with her work! Highly! Everything is fast, clear, with the ability to automatically switch the front derailleur depending on the position of the rear.

The next in line was the heart rate sensor. Chest on the belt, as they are stable and do not lie. So I learned to understand my body, see reactions to loads, and plan them. If you know your maximum heart rate, with which you can drive for 10 minutes (or another time interval), then you can plan a jerk so that you do not run out of time ahead of time.

The upgrades ended on this, but the obsession with the road bike got into my head. I bought it in parts of 1.5 years at bicycle shops in Europe. At that time, I clearly knew what I wanted, and these Wishlist in total did not give me a chance to buy a finished version.

I especially remembered the purchase of a frame and wheels.
The best time to buy bicycle goods is winter. In November 2017, at one of the European online stores, I found quite good bike loops. I made an order and paid. I waited several days, finally receiving a letter with regrets about the inability to fulfill the order. It was a fiasco, I had a bit of a fight, but, of course, it did not help. They returned the money to me. Back to rubles. On a double conversion, I lost about 5,000 rubles. I was angry, very angry, but time passed, the frame was needed, and in this store there was a discount on an even better frame. With a scratch in my soul, I paid for it, and the next day I went to clear it in Vnukovo. Because they sent it to UPS, which is fashionable, fast, but it has consequences. I did not want to pay a customs broker and performed all the procedures myself, enriching our state by several thousand rubles. A week later, the price of this frame fell by about 300 British pounds. I was indignant, and with a dull mind wrote to the store that I was upset. Not only the falling price, but also their previous jamb with reassortment. In response, I received a letter with a coupon of 350 pounds for the next purchase, which I did. It turned out to be wheels. Good, nice wheels, which I really like, now they cost 2 times more than the amount that I gave for them then. Catch the sales! Now they cost 2 times more than the amount that I gave for them then. Catch the sales! Now they cost 2 times more than the amount that I gave for them then. Catch the sales!

Then I realized the sharp need for myself in a power meter. Knowing the pulse makes it possible to drive for a long time, but the situation is similar with a power meter. The meter gives an understanding of your progress. It is incorrect to compare two runs on the forehead. Too many external factors that affect the final speed (strength and direction of the wind, air temperature, microrelief). How to understand that you are progressing (well, or regressing)? Here a power meter will help us, which gives the figure (averaged over the last few seconds) in watts, which the cyclist issues with his feet. And if your average power is gradually increasing - there is progress. In general, a useful, albeit quite expensive toy, but have I already mentioned that the main thing is the numbers?

Strava and sensors
As I wrote, the bike computer is able to send a race log to Strava. Including the values ​​from the sensors in time.

There are two but:

  • Speed ​​is always calculated by GPS, even if there is a sensor that reads the wheel speed, which is more accurate
  • Strava greatly overestimates power if a power meter is not installed. That is, she deep down in her soul has an algorithm for calculating this value based on indirect data, but direct data from the meter’s sensor gives lower numbers


But remember, no matter what you do, the phrase “It never gets easier, you just go faster!” Will overtake you.

Food and drink


Food does not really matter with your pokatushki over short distances, but its role is increasing, it is worth moving away from home. I will not describe the stages of metabolism, I’ll just say that glucose is needed. Certain reserves of it (in the form of glycogen) are present in the muscles themselves and are used to quickly obtain energy. Next, the liver is connected to the process, well, at the end of glycogen and in this storehouse, fat stores come into play. The trouble is that the last process is not fast and there are chances to not have time to get the fuel in the right amount. And this is called hypoglycemia (in the common people Bonk). I had the pleasure of getting into such a situation, as there was not much left until home. Feelings of perishability of life, hatred of everything, the absolute lethargy of any movement, the likelihood of tunnel vision and blurred consciousness - these are all pleasant things that are attached. Urgently need to eat sweets, so take fast carbohydrates on a long journey. Chocolate bars, bananas, nuts, etc., go well.
But water is needed! When traveling to work (the distance is about 23-24 km) I do not take it, but I’m sure to go further. In motion, but in the sun, a person evaporates a lot of moisture from himself, and the whole body needs it like that, including the knee joints, in which the “lubricating” fluid begins to lose its properties, which is very, very bad in the future. I well remember my trip Korolev - Uglich - Rybinsk (308 km). The water ran out 60 km to Uglich and I suffered. But he begged the locals for a liter, on which he reached the city. But this affected the body, and from Uglich to Rybinsk it was very not very! Vobschem without water is bad!

Tool


For the new season I bought a tool bottle in a bottle holder. It has a spare chamber, a mini pump and installation. Well, it's nice to take a special bike multitool. There are no quick-release axles in my road, so without a hexagon, the wheel cannot be removed. In principle, I consider this a necessary minimum. Last year, I traveled without this kit, which gave me the opportunity to walk along the entire Paper Cut to the Moscow Ring Road. And all would be fine, but my road tires were damaged, because the hard sides of the rims decently rubbed the ends of the tire while I rolled the bike with the rear flat. Zelo is unpleasant, rubber is not cheap.

Incidents


There were different things:

  • Once I drove home. The speed is about 35, I'm in thoughts. I see in front a girl riding in the same direction. Added a side spacing, almost caught up. And here she makes the wheel to the left, does well, confidently, experience is felt. In principle, everything ended well. There are no scratches on the girl, me and bicycles, I got flight experience and a bunch of conclusions. Now I am very afraid of children being on a bicycle. No, I’ve been afraid before, well, right there I’m completely afraid, which I highly recommend to you
  • Dogs. I'm leaving them as I can. Who can’t - take a spray for example, if your path lies in places of special potential. Dogs are very motivated for speed records
  • Once I was driving along a roadway. A stranger walked towards the sidewalk (such a good, wide sidewalk). And I wouldn’t remember him so well if he didn’t take a step right under my wheels. Yes, from the sidewalk to the roadway. No, there was no pedestrian crossing. No, he did not look at me, he looked back at that moment. Beware of strangers, they are sometimes sudden
  • Rain. You ride like that, enjoy. Trees are reflected in puddles. It is both beautiful and bad. You do not see what's under the puddles. One of my friends drove at 33 km / h. The pit was small, but sufficient. And he traveled this road more than a thousand times. Be careful not to repeat mistakes, in such conditions reduce speed, try not to ride through puddles. By the way, it's not scary to ride in the rain. You have two options. The first is to buy good equipment (in the raincoats you sopret!) And it will protect you for some time, but not endlessly. The second is to get wet as quickly as possible. Then it becomes fun and indifferent - I do not lie in the least. And carry a plastic bag in your pocket. You will wrap your phone in it, since it will not matter to him.
  • Road marking. It is slippery if wet. Highly! At low speed, I literally touched the brake once, and then a quick jack. Light dirt on the pavement, as well as sand, works the same way. To the debate about helmets. The same comrade turned left in the park. The asphalt was just wet, but that's not the point. On the eve of the park workers covered something in this place on it with black paint. Absolutely imperceptible, but very slippery.
  • Suddenly opening doors of parked cars. Well this is a classic! Write yourself a precautionary algorithm for the subcortex.
  • Well, simple skirmishes with motorists. There are good people too. They stopped, picked up the lost bag that had slipped from the bicycle, caught up and handed it. And there are others, for example, they naturally spat on me through the strip, but it happened. In any case, be extremely careful on the road and turn your head a lot.

Ending


A bike is wonderful. Despite a bunch of difficulties, it’s very cool not to depend on traffic jams and schedules. This is a great opportunity to get a portion of the movement in our sitting time, find new friends, new experiences. Thanks to all!

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