Self-assembly of a 3D printer or purchase of ready-made equipment for construction. BY. Part 2

    In the first part, it was shown and told how to assemble a doomsday machine 3D printer. Now, it is time to revive the mechanical miracle with software, brains and wires.



    For this, I used open source free software: Repetier-host (for connecting a computer to a 3D printer control board) and Arduino IDE (for working with microcontroller firmware). And the 3D printer itself. About the intricacies of the configuration of this software will be discussed in this part: Mastertronics



    control boardIt has an Arduino MEGA 2560 microcontroller on board, through which it communicates with a computer and controls everything connected to this board, as in the figure:


    The algorithm for working with a 3D printer is as follows:

    1) We have a fully assembled design ( Part 1 )
    2) Connect mini -USB cable to the Mastertronics control board and to the computer
    3) Next, flash the microcontroller with Marlin_MC5 firmware
    (the version that I use in my printer here )
    4) Run the Repetier host program on the computer
    5) Set the printer parameters in Repetier
    6) Set up the connection with printer
    7) Connect power to the control board
    8) We check the operability of the control board and the electronics connected to it
    9) If necessary, make changes to the Marlin firmware.

    Let's start from point 3.

    To do this, start the Arduino IDE program, select the Arduino Mega 2560 board, ATmega 2560 processor and com port in the tools tab.



    We open the file with the downloaded Marlin.ino firmware, click the icon -> Download, wait until it compiles and loads into the microcontroller ...

    Now go to item 4 of

    the Repetier program, select the menu configuration -> Printer Settings.
    Here you need to set the com port, baud rate and cache size.



    And also all the parameters of the printer, extruder and print area:
    Printer Settings






    After that, you can safely press the key with the plug icon-> Connect the printer and move your ears with steps. There are two ways to do this: Using the buttons on the control panel, or sending the G-code commands:



    Pay attention to the Emergency Stop button highlighted in yellow.

    After successfully connecting to the control board, you can supply power to it and send a parking command on all three axes of the G28, or press the button with the image of the house without a letter inside. If the motors and limit switches are connected correctly, the printer will begin to move each axis until the limit switches trigger. Thus, zero coordinates will be set for all three axes (Home position). This means laughing.

    If something goes wrong, press the emergency stop button, turn off the power, think, check that the motors and limit switches are connected to the board correctly, the jumpers installed under the drivers are installed. If everything is correctly connected, but does not work properly, then open the Marlin firmware on the Configuration.h tab and check the logic of the limit switches in the lines of code:

    const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // Set the value to (true or false) true or false to invert the endstop logic.
    const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false;
    const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true;
    const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true;
    const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true;
    const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true;

    I had problems with the direction of movement of the axles during parking, so I had to change the logic of the limit switches in the firmware code.

    Next, you can begin to test the extruder.
    To do this, set the temperature to 100 degrees and monitor the temperature sensor. If everything is ok, then try to heat to a temperature of 200 degrees, then insert the plastic thread and push a few tens of centimeters using manual control of the extruder in the Repetier program. I had no problems at this stage:



    At this point , the preparation of the printer software is almost complete. Next, you can move on to the third fascinating part - 3D printing itself, which has its own subtleties in setting, which must be mastered so as not to print such products:



    In the third part I will talk about what a slicer is and how to set it up for “cutting” 3D models for printing, about the requirements for 3D models, and why it is not so easy to take and calibrate a 3D printer.

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