December 20, 2012 at 06:03Apple eMac Acceleration from 1 GHz to 1.2 GHz with a soldering iron
Hello, Habr! Today I want to talk about how I used my soldering iron to disperse my old eMac. I did this about 3 years ago, so now I will tell everything as the old man is sorted.
Front view.
View from below.
The inscriptions on the cover. 2x bolts were not enough from the moment of purchase (took it from hand) =)
Having removed the cover, we get access to RAM, the BIOS battery and the PRAM reset button.
By the way, a battery is used to power the BIOS, and not just a battery. This is great because during long-term operation it will be extremely rare to recall about it. Initially, there was a nickel-cadmium battery, but it stopped holding a charge. In MakOS, this was expressed by a reset of time. I changed it to Lithium. It works further =)
Having unscrewed all the bolts in the case, remove it carefully without damaging the wires of the power button. Disconnect them.
Remove the cover.
General view without a cover, bottom.
On the back.
Side view.
The stereo speakers are here at 19 watts.
Next, remove the cover by unscrewing 2 bolts.
We get access to the CD-ROM drive and modem. The drive was also replaced, the old one did not support DVD. Now he is omnivorous, but there is a small jamb. If after turning on the computer do not use the drive for 10 minutes, then it seems to freeze. It ceases to respond to the eject button, and generally behaves as if it is not there at all. On the Internet they write that this is the case with almost any drive and this is not treated, except for certain models that initially plow as they should, that is, they do not require additional tricks. Clearly a firmware compatibility issue.
Disconnect the fan power wire.
We remove it. It is mounted on rubber buffers designed to eliminate vibration, but in fact the cooler itself "cuts air" quite loudly.
Under the cooler we see a heat pipe with a radiator.
Disconnect the signal wire of the monitor. By the way, it turns out to be a regular RGB connector. On the Internet, the kulibins even replaced the native picture tube with an LCD matrix of appropriate sizes. Well, they tried that there were no connection problems.
Disconnect the second end from the power button.
Next, turn off the speakers, microphone, status indicator LED and another connector that goes somewhere deep into the monitor, so I did not understand its purpose.
Unscrewing all the bolts around the perimeter remove the "system unit" from the monitor.
Monitor without block.
Reverse side of the motherboard.
Connector for optional Wi-Fi card. By the way, to install it, you do not need to disassemble the computer, just unscrew the small cover over the CD-ROM drive.
The hard drive was also replaced by me. It was 60 GB, it became 120 GB - the maximum for this platform.
On the side of the “screw” is a rather massive copper processor heat sink with a heat pipe.
We remove the hard drive.
Having disconnected a loop.
And finally, we remove the "motherboard".
General view of the reverse side of the motherboard
Dial-Up modem.
Power Supply.
But the actual location of the soldering iron. I note that at that time I held the soldering iron in my hands for the first time. It was very scary. Most of all I was afraid to kill the machine. But the desire to squeeze the coveted megahertz outweighed the fear over the processor.
By the way, the process while I “dispersed” the machine, I had to assemble / disassemble it three times and re-solder three times. And I had to solder with a toothpick =) I held it with those small diodes that tried to “shoot” into space and get lost =)
I marked three rows of pins with which the processor stepping is regulated, green - as it was originally , blue is what happened as a result.
At first I overclocked it to 1.13 GHz, then I reassembled the machine, then again, after disassembling it, I overclocked it to 1.3 GHz and having assembled it back, I thought that everything would be so fine and will remain. But after some time the computer began to fall into the "screen of death." Naturally, I had no doubt that this was due to my dispersal. Therefore, I had to disassemble it for the third time and again solder it to 1.2 GHz.
Here in this mode, the sow plows without any glitches for the third year already.
These are such adventures =)
Front view.
View from below.
The inscriptions on the cover. 2x bolts were not enough from the moment of purchase (took it from hand) =)
Having removed the cover, we get access to RAM, the BIOS battery and the PRAM reset button.
By the way, a battery is used to power the BIOS, and not just a battery. This is great because during long-term operation it will be extremely rare to recall about it. Initially, there was a nickel-cadmium battery, but it stopped holding a charge. In MakOS, this was expressed by a reset of time. I changed it to Lithium. It works further =)
Having unscrewed all the bolts in the case, remove it carefully without damaging the wires of the power button. Disconnect them.
Remove the cover.
General view without a cover, bottom.
On the back.
Side view.
The stereo speakers are here at 19 watts.
Next, remove the cover by unscrewing 2 bolts.
We get access to the CD-ROM drive and modem. The drive was also replaced, the old one did not support DVD. Now he is omnivorous, but there is a small jamb. If after turning on the computer do not use the drive for 10 minutes, then it seems to freeze. It ceases to respond to the eject button, and generally behaves as if it is not there at all. On the Internet they write that this is the case with almost any drive and this is not treated, except for certain models that initially plow as they should, that is, they do not require additional tricks. Clearly a firmware compatibility issue.
Disconnect the fan power wire.
We remove it. It is mounted on rubber buffers designed to eliminate vibration, but in fact the cooler itself "cuts air" quite loudly.
Under the cooler we see a heat pipe with a radiator.
Disconnect the signal wire of the monitor. By the way, it turns out to be a regular RGB connector. On the Internet, the kulibins even replaced the native picture tube with an LCD matrix of appropriate sizes. Well, they tried that there were no connection problems.
Disconnect the second end from the power button.
Next, turn off the speakers, microphone, status indicator LED and another connector that goes somewhere deep into the monitor, so I did not understand its purpose.
Unscrewing all the bolts around the perimeter remove the "system unit" from the monitor.
Monitor without block.
Reverse side of the motherboard.
Connector for optional Wi-Fi card. By the way, to install it, you do not need to disassemble the computer, just unscrew the small cover over the CD-ROM drive.
The hard drive was also replaced by me. It was 60 GB, it became 120 GB - the maximum for this platform.
On the side of the “screw” is a rather massive copper processor heat sink with a heat pipe.
We remove the hard drive.
Having disconnected a loop.
And finally, we remove the "motherboard".
General view of the reverse side of the motherboard
Dial-Up modem.
Power Supply.
But the actual location of the soldering iron. I note that at that time I held the soldering iron in my hands for the first time. It was very scary. Most of all I was afraid to kill the machine. But the desire to squeeze the coveted megahertz outweighed the fear over the processor.
By the way, the process while I “dispersed” the machine, I had to assemble / disassemble it three times and re-solder three times. And I had to solder with a toothpick =) I held it with those small diodes that tried to “shoot” into space and get lost =)
I marked three rows of pins with which the processor stepping is regulated, green - as it was originally , blue is what happened as a result.
At first I overclocked it to 1.13 GHz, then I reassembled the machine, then again, after disassembling it, I overclocked it to 1.3 GHz and having assembled it back, I thought that everything would be so fine and will remain. But after some time the computer began to fall into the "screen of death." Naturally, I had no doubt that this was due to my dispersal. Therefore, I had to disassemble it for the third time and again solder it to 1.2 GHz.
Here in this mode, the sow plows without any glitches for the third year already.
These are such adventures =)