Research: Why airplane food is so tasteless
In our blog, we talked about how restaurants automate their work using special systems (for example, Jowi ), take care of the comfort of visitors with the right light and sound , and also use psychological tricks to increase the average check.
In addition, we examined some popular topics from the point of view of scientific experiments - for example, is fast food food more harmful than restaurants. Today we will talk about another question that interests many people - why food on planes is so tasteless.
In the mid-twentieth century, when a transatlantic flight could take 20 hours, a very limited amount of entertainment was available to passengers. In order to somehow brighten the journey, the airlines copied the principles of service adopted on the railway or sea transport. One of the elements borrowed was the attitude to food.
After World War II, there was nothing to surprise anyone with a multi-course dinner. Lobsters, steaks, no plastic utensils - the service on board was second to none.
True, only very wealthy people could afford air travel in those days. However, over time, flights became cheaper, airlines began to try to play on their mass, which led to the need to save on food. If you transport 60 people, this is one thing, but when you need to feed 150 mouths at the same time, a lot of different difficulties appear.
As a result, in 1952 the “economic class” of service was born, which included, among other things, a decrease in the quality of the food on offer. And from about the same time, the general opinion that “airplane food” was worthless began to strengthen.
Modern planes rise to a height of more than 10 kilometers, but the pressure in them is maintained at a level of 2-4 km - otherwise passengers simply could not breathe. However, such pressure leads to the fact that the taste buds of a person become less sensitive. Previously, airplanes did not fly so high, which means the steak served to the passenger had almost the same taste as on the ground.
Another factor that affects taste perception is the humidity inside the cabin. Usually it is below 20% (in houses on earth it rarely drops below 30%), which leads to drying of the nasopharynx - this also negatively affects the sense of smell and taste buds. And the smell, as you know, is directly related to taste (and also because of the dryness in the cabin you feel thirsty). As a result, at an altitude, the perception of salinity and sweetness of food is reduced by 30%, says Grant Mickels, chief chef at Lufthansa LSG Sky Chefs.
Also, the use of ventilation and air circulation very quickly dry food. This means that just a couple of minutes after the passenger is served juicy chicken breast, it will taste little different from sawdust.
Over the years, researchers from around the world have tried to find out how much the perception of taste changes at altitude.
Scientists from the Fraunhofer Institute in Germany created a special simulator of the airplane’s cabin, half the size of an Airbus cockpit, in which they could control pressure, humidity, temperature, noise level, vibration and stand lighting using special equipment. The experiment was attended by several dozen volunteers who were asked to describe their impression of food in a changing environment.
Study foundthat “at low pressure the threshold of recognition and recognition ... of smells is higher” - this confirms the weakening of the sense of smell at altitude. As for the recognition of taste, the threshold for the perception of salinity and sweetness also rises. Interestingly, the bitterness is well felt even at altitude, as well as the recognition of sodium glutamate, which is responsible for giving the dishes a “pleasant taste” (it is called minds ) , which hardly suffers . Scientists from American Cornell University also conducted
their research . During their experiment, 48 subjects were asked to try five different dishes under conditions corresponding to the cockpit, and in silence.
The data of American scientists indicate that the noisy atmosphere of the cabin could even enhance the perception of tastes by the minds (for example, when eating tomatoes). In addition, the study recorded an extremely small decrease in taste ratings of salty, sour or bitter foods.
However, a significant decrease in the perception of sweet food was recorded. The noisier the general situation, the less delicious the proposed desserts seemed to the subjects.
Many scientists find connections between a person’s mood and what kind of food he eats. When someone travels on an airplane and eats fatty foods or something that contains a lot of sugar, it can negatively affect him. If a passenger overeat even with a delicious dinner, a feeling of heaviness in the stomach will negatively affect the overall impression of the flight.
The times when food was one of the main aspects of air travel gradually fade into the past. Many airlines, especially when flying short distances, generally refuse to provide lunch. Instead, passengers are encouraged to buy a sandwich or salted nuts if they still want to eat.
The approach of “food as entertainment” is replaced by the approach of “entertainment as entertainment,” says University professor Albright Guillaume de Sion, who spent many years studying the history of air travel and, in particular, the aspect of food. It is part of this trend that the expert sees the installation of entertainment screens in the backs of seats or the increasing spread of Wi-Fi on airplanes.
For airlines, the initial investment in introducing these technologies can be significant, but in the future they can seriously save. Catering on board involves solving many logistics and management tasks. If you refuse to provide food, having occupied the passenger with a movie, giving him maximum salted peanuts for a fee, then this allows you to get rid of a headache.
“Passengers are better off spending two hours watching a movie than fighting a plane meal or drinking alcohol,” says de Sion. - In addition, drinking alcohol on board also has a side effect in the form of the possibility of inadequate behavior of a “busted” passenger. When people just look at the screen or surf the Internet, it’s more convenient for everyone. ”
A bit of history
In the mid-twentieth century, when a transatlantic flight could take 20 hours, a very limited amount of entertainment was available to passengers. In order to somehow brighten the journey, the airlines copied the principles of service adopted on the railway or sea transport. One of the elements borrowed was the attitude to food.
After World War II, there was nothing to surprise anyone with a multi-course dinner. Lobsters, steaks, no plastic utensils - the service on board was second to none.
True, only very wealthy people could afford air travel in those days. However, over time, flights became cheaper, airlines began to try to play on their mass, which led to the need to save on food. If you transport 60 people, this is one thing, but when you need to feed 150 mouths at the same time, a lot of different difficulties appear.
As a result, in 1952 the “economic class” of service was born, which included, among other things, a decrease in the quality of the food on offer. And from about the same time, the general opinion that “airplane food” was worthless began to strengthen.
What is the problem
Modern planes rise to a height of more than 10 kilometers, but the pressure in them is maintained at a level of 2-4 km - otherwise passengers simply could not breathe. However, such pressure leads to the fact that the taste buds of a person become less sensitive. Previously, airplanes did not fly so high, which means the steak served to the passenger had almost the same taste as on the ground.
Another factor that affects taste perception is the humidity inside the cabin. Usually it is below 20% (in houses on earth it rarely drops below 30%), which leads to drying of the nasopharynx - this also negatively affects the sense of smell and taste buds. And the smell, as you know, is directly related to taste (and also because of the dryness in the cabin you feel thirsty). As a result, at an altitude, the perception of salinity and sweetness of food is reduced by 30%, says Grant Mickels, chief chef at Lufthansa LSG Sky Chefs.
Also, the use of ventilation and air circulation very quickly dry food. This means that just a couple of minutes after the passenger is served juicy chicken breast, it will taste little different from sawdust.
Is this really so: what research says
Over the years, researchers from around the world have tried to find out how much the perception of taste changes at altitude.
Scientists from the Fraunhofer Institute in Germany created a special simulator of the airplane’s cabin, half the size of an Airbus cockpit, in which they could control pressure, humidity, temperature, noise level, vibration and stand lighting using special equipment. The experiment was attended by several dozen volunteers who were asked to describe their impression of food in a changing environment.
Study foundthat “at low pressure the threshold of recognition and recognition ... of smells is higher” - this confirms the weakening of the sense of smell at altitude. As for the recognition of taste, the threshold for the perception of salinity and sweetness also rises. Interestingly, the bitterness is well felt even at altitude, as well as the recognition of sodium glutamate, which is responsible for giving the dishes a “pleasant taste” (it is called minds ) , which hardly suffers . Scientists from American Cornell University also conducted
their research . During their experiment, 48 subjects were asked to try five different dishes under conditions corresponding to the cockpit, and in silence.
The data of American scientists indicate that the noisy atmosphere of the cabin could even enhance the perception of tastes by the minds (for example, when eating tomatoes). In addition, the study recorded an extremely small decrease in taste ratings of salty, sour or bitter foods.
However, a significant decrease in the perception of sweet food was recorded. The noisier the general situation, the less delicious the proposed desserts seemed to the subjects.
Prospects: reduced role of food during flights
Many scientists find connections between a person’s mood and what kind of food he eats. When someone travels on an airplane and eats fatty foods or something that contains a lot of sugar, it can negatively affect him. If a passenger overeat even with a delicious dinner, a feeling of heaviness in the stomach will negatively affect the overall impression of the flight.
The times when food was one of the main aspects of air travel gradually fade into the past. Many airlines, especially when flying short distances, generally refuse to provide lunch. Instead, passengers are encouraged to buy a sandwich or salted nuts if they still want to eat.
The approach of “food as entertainment” is replaced by the approach of “entertainment as entertainment,” says University professor Albright Guillaume de Sion, who spent many years studying the history of air travel and, in particular, the aspect of food. It is part of this trend that the expert sees the installation of entertainment screens in the backs of seats or the increasing spread of Wi-Fi on airplanes.
For airlines, the initial investment in introducing these technologies can be significant, but in the future they can seriously save. Catering on board involves solving many logistics and management tasks. If you refuse to provide food, having occupied the passenger with a movie, giving him maximum salted peanuts for a fee, then this allows you to get rid of a headache.
“Passengers are better off spending two hours watching a movie than fighting a plane meal or drinking alcohol,” says de Sion. - In addition, drinking alcohol on board also has a side effect in the form of the possibility of inadequate behavior of a “busted” passenger. When people just look at the screen or surf the Internet, it’s more convenient for everyone. ”